Impact of Tie-Dye Techniques on the Durability and Aesthetic Appeal of Textiles

Knotting and binding dyeing is a tie-dyeing technique where garments or fabrics are tied or bound with ropes or threads into fixed shapes and then immersed in dye liquor for coloring. The main characteristics of this technique are vibrant colors, distinct color blocks, and clear lines, making it suitable for producing small or medium-sized textile products. Knotting and binding dyeing can also be further categorized into various types, such as rope tying, thread tying, and rubber band tying.

Folding and clamping dyeing is a tie-dyeing technique where garments or fabrics are folded or rolled, shaped into various forms using tools like wooden sticks, clips, or wooden blocks, and then immersed in dye liquor for coloring. The distinctive feature of folding and clamping dyeing is its strong sense of color layers and three-dimensional patterns, making it suitable for creating medium or large-sized textile products. There are many types of folding and clamping dyeing techniques, including diamond folding, triangular folding, and herringbone folding.

Tying and knotting dyeing is a tie-dyeing technique where the fabric itself is folded or twisted into various structured patterns, creating various textured patterns during the dyeing process. The characteristic of tying and knotting dyeing is its natural and smooth patterns, excellent color gradients, and the ability to create large-scale textile products. There are many types of tying and knotting dyeing techniques, such as circular knotting, diagonal knotting, and twisted braid knotting.

Stitching and binding dyeing is a tie-dyeing technique where garments or fabrics are stitched and bound according to predetermined patterns, and then immersed in dye liquor to create various patterns or motifs. The distinctive feature of stitching and binding dyeing is its diverse and vivid patterns with specific shapes, making it a suitable technique for producing small or medium-sized textile products. There are many types of stitching and binding dyeing techniques, including flat stitching, folding stitching, butterfly stitching, and twisted horsehair stitching.

Direct dyeing is a tie-dyeing technique where the fabric is directly immersed in dye liquor for coloring. This technique is characterized by distinct shapes, vibrant color blocks, and the ability to create large-scale textile products. Direct dyeing also has various types, such as hanging dyeing, splashing dyeing, and pulling dyeing.

In general, tie-dyeing is a highly versatile manual textile printing and dyeing technique that can be processed and dyed in different ways according to specific needs. The following table lists the main characteristics and applicable ranges of different tie-dyeing techniques. See Table 1 for the classification and characteristics of common tie-dyeing techniques.

Tie-dyeing techniques have gained widespread application in modern fashion and home decor, becoming a popular textile processing technique. Moreover, tie-dyeing techniques have advantages such as environmental friendliness and sustainability, making them highly favored in the field of handicrafts and fashion design.

Apart from textile processing, tie-dyeing techniques can also be applied to dyeing and processing other materials such as leather, paper, bamboo, and wood. Furthermore, tie-dyeing techniques are ideal for DIY enthusiasts in creating unique and one-of-a-kind artistic pieces through their own creativity and imagination [12]. In China, Africa, and India, many female laborers provide employment opportunities and sources of income to people through tie-dye techniques, bringing benefits to the textile industry [13].

In addition to traditional manual tie-dyeing techniques, there have been recent developments in automated and digital tie-dyeing technologies, such as digital printing machines and computer-controlled dyeing machines. These technologies enable faster and more precise tie-dyeing processes and can be applied to large-scale textile production.

To investigate the effects of different tie-dyeing techniques on the durability and aesthetics of textiles, cotton-linen (Composition: 100 % Cotton; Weave: Woven; Width: 157 cm; Weight: 136.1 g/ m²; Category: Poplin; Warp: 482/10 in, Weft: 210/10 in) blend fabric was chosen as the experimental sample material. Six different tie-dyeing techniques were applied to the fabric samples separately.

Before the experiment, the cotton-linen blend fabric was pre-treated, including washing, drying, and ironing steps, to ensure the consistency of the initial state of the experimental samples. Subsequently, the fabric was divided into six groups, and different tie-dyeing techniques were applied to each. During the treatment process, efforts were made to ensure consistent treatment conditions for each group of samples to eliminate the influence of external factors. Table 2 presents the dyeing conditions for the durability and aesthetics testing items.

Throughout the sample treatment process, consistent experimental conditions were maintained to ensure that factors such as treatment time, temperature, and dyeing methods were consistent for each group of samples, eliminating the influence of external factors. Statistical analysis was also conducted on the experimental results to determine if there were statistically significant differences in the effects of different tie-dyeing techniques on textiles.

After each treatment, the experimental samples underwent dyeing to ensure consistent dyeing effects for each group. Subsequently, this study subjected the experimental samples to multiple tests, including assessments of wear resistance, aesthetic appeal, water resistance, and elasticity, to explore the impact of various tie-dye techniques on the durability and visual appeal of textiles. To ensure the accuracy of the experiments, multiple testing methods and parameters were employed to evaluate the samples repeatedly. The pre-dyeing effects of common tie-dyeing techniques are shown in Table 3.

4.2.2.

Data Collection

During the experimental process, this study collected various data indicators, including wear resistance, aesthetic appeal, water resistance, and elasticity, to assess the impact of different tie-dye techniques on textiles. The specific data collection methods were as follows: Wear Resistance Test: According to ISO 105-X12:2016 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness Part X12: Color Fastness to Rubbing, the samples were subjected to both dry and wet rubbing with two different-sized friction heads, using a reciprocating linear motion. The evaluation was performed using a gray scale for staining, and experimental data were obtained. In this study, the experimental samples underwent multiple friction tests using a friction tester to assess the impact of different tie-dye techniques on the wear resistance of textiles [14]. During the test, the samples were fixed to the tester, and multiple frictions were applied at a certain speed. The number of frictions and the condition of sample damage were recorded. Table 5 shows the results of dry and wet friction fastness experiments. The final dry and wet friction fastness ratings are presented in Figure 1.

Table 5.

Dry and Wet Friction Fastness Experiment

Sample No.	Type	Sample Number	Friction Count	Grade	Results
No.1	Dry Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	5
		3	10	4
	Wet Friction	1	10	4
		2	10	4
		3	10	4
No.2	Dry Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	5
		3	10	5
	Wet Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	4
		3	10	4
No.3	Dry Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	5
		3	10	5
	Wet Friction	1	10	4
		2	10	4
		3	10	4
No.4	Dry Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	5
		3	10	5
	Wet Friction	1	10	4
		2	10	4
		3	10	4
No.5	Dry Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	5
		3	10	4
	Wet Friction	1	10	3
		2	10	3
		3	10	3
No.6	Dry Friction	1	10	5
		2	10	5
		3	10	5
	Wet Friction	1	10	4
		2	10	4
		3	10	5

Fig. 1.

Aesthetics Evaluation: This study invited multiple professional assessors to evaluate the aesthetics of the experimental samples to assess the impact of different tie-dyeing techniques on textile aesthetics. During the evaluation, the assessors evaluated and scored aspects such as the color, patterns, and textures of the samples. The multi-assessor aesthetic evaluations are shown in Table 6. The final multi-assessor aesthetic evaluations are presented in Figure 2.

Fig. 2.

Table 6.

Multi-Assessor Aesthetic Evaluations

Fabric Sample	Assessor A	Assessor B	Assessor C	Assessor D	Assessor E
No.1	Good	Poor	Good	Good	Good
No.2	Good	Good	Good	Good	Good
No.3	Good	Poor	Good	Poor	Poor
No.4	Good	Good	Poor	Good	Poor
No.5	Good	Poor	Good	Good	Good
No.6	Good	Poor	Good	Poor	Poor

Color Fastness to Water Washing Testing: According to ISO 105-C10:2006 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness Part C10: Color Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda, the samples were sewn together with one or two pieces of standard lining fabric measuring 100mm×40mm. They were placed in a mixture of soap and sodium carbonate, and then mechanically agitated under specified time and temperature conditions. After washing and drying, the samples were compared to the original specimen as a reference, and the extent of color change in the samples and staining on the lining fabric was assessed using a grey scale. This study employed internationally standardized color fastness testing methods to evaluate the color fastness of the experimental samples under different tie-dyeing techniques [15]. The samples were immersed in water containing dye, dyed for a certain period, and then placed in containers with clean water to observe the dye bleeding and evaluate the color fastness of the samples. The results of the color fastness-to-water washing experiments are shown in Table 7. The final color fastness-to-water washing ratings are presented in Figure 3.

Fig. 3.

Table 7.

Color Fastness to Water Washing Experiment

Sample No.	Sample Number	Temperature (°C)	Duration (minutes)	Grade	Sample Color Change and Staining on Lining Fabric
No.1	1	60	30	3
	2	60	30	3
	3	60	30	3
	4	60	30	3
	5	60	30	3
No.2	1	60	30	4
	2	60	30	4
	3	60	30	4
	4	60	30	4
	5	60	30	4
No.3	1	60	30	3
	2	60	30	3
	3	60	30	3
	4	60	30	3
	5	60	30	3
No.4	1	60	30	4
	2	60	30	4
	3	60	30	4
	4	60	30	4
	5	60	30	4
No.5	1	60	30	3
	2	60	30	3
	3	60	30	3
	4	60	30	3
	5	60	30	3
No.6	1	60	30	5
	2	60	30	5
	3	60	30	5
	4	60	30	5
	5	60	30	5

The selection and implementation of the aforementioned testing methods and parameters provide comprehensive insights into the impact of different tie-dyeing techniques on textile durability and aesthetics, offering robust data support and scientific evidence for the research.

Tensile Performance Testing: According to ISO 13934-1:2013 Textiles - Tensile Properties of Fabrics Part 1: Determination of Maximum Force and Elongation at Maximum Force Using the Strip Method, samples measuring 100mm×200mm were cut. They were subjected to a constant rate of elongation until they ruptured, and the maximum force at rupture and the elongation at maximum force were recorded. This study conducted multiple tensile tests on samples with different tie-dyeing techniques, using a universal material testing machine, to evaluate the strength and durability of the samples. The test parameters included the testing speed, sampling frequency, and number of repetitions. The tensile performance of the samples is shown in Table 8.

Table 8.

Tensile Performance of the Samples

Warp Sample	Breaking Strength (N)	Breaking Elongation (%)	Weft Sample	Breaking Strength (N)	Breaking Elongation (%)
No.1	465	13.34%	No.1	381	18.85%
No.2	463	13.46%	No.2	386	18.82%
No.3	470	14.12%	No.3	379	18.55%
No.4	466	13.20%	No.4	388	18.76%
No.5	472	13.61%	No.5	389	18.23%
No.6	460	14.15%	No.6	370	18.18%
Average	466	13.64%	Average	382	18.56%

This study employed various testing methods and parameters to comprehensively evaluate and test textiles with different tie-dyeing techniques, aiming to explore the impact of different tie-dyeing techniques on textile durability and aesthetics. Through experimental design and implementation, this study successfully investigated the effects of different tie-dyeing techniques on textiles, providing valuable references and guidance for textile design and production.

Through statistical analysis of the test results, this study gained in-depth understanding of the effects of different tie-dyeing techniques on textiles and compared the strengths and weaknesses among various techniques. The statistical analysis results can provide beneficial references and guidance for textile design and production.

Tensile strength and abrasion resistance are important indicators of textile durability. Different tie-dyeing techniques have a significant impact on the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles. The experimental results indicate that the stitch and bind dye method exhibited a warp and weft breaking elongation of 13.34 % and 18.85 %, with dry and wet rubbing colorfastness ratings of five and four, and superior tensile strength and wear resistance compared to the stitch and tie-dye technique. Among these methods, the knot-dye technique demonstrated the highest tensile strength, with warp and weft breaking elongations of 14.12 % and 18.55 % respectively, followed by the direct dyeing technique, while the stitch and bind dye method had the lowest values. The direct dyeing technique exhibited the best wear resistance, with dry and wet rubbing colorfastness ratings of five and three, outperforming the other methods.

The impact of tie-dyeing techniques on the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles is mainly attributed to the structural changes in the textiles. The folding and clamping dyeing technique aligns the fibers of textiles more parallel, reducing fiber distortion and breakage. The knotting and binding dyeing technique tilts the fibers, increasing the surface area and friction between fibers, thereby improving the abrasion resistance of textiles. Conversely, the stitching and binding dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, resulting in increased friction between fibers and the decreased tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles. These results indicate that the stitch and bind dye methods, as well as the knot-dye technique, offer higher tensile strength and better wear resistance in textile design and production. This allows for the creation of diverse textile patterns and colors while extending the product’s lifespan. These techniques outperform the standard textile production and testing criteria.

In addition to tensile strength and wear resistance, tie-dye techniques have a significant impact on the water resistance and stability of textiles. Stability refers to the ability of textiles to maintain their shape and size during use, while water resistance pertains to the performance of textiles in maintaining their original state and appearance during later washing processes.

The experimental results show that different tie-dye techniques have varying effects on the water resistance and stability of textiles. The folding and clamping dye method enhances both the water resistance and stability of textiles, while the stitch and bind dye technique reduces them. The direct dyeing technique has a relatively minor impact on the water resistance and stability of textiles.

The influence of tie-dye techniques on the water resistance and stability of textiles is mainly due to changes in the structure of textiles and the orientation of fibers. Folding and clamping dyeing technique aligns the fibers more parallel, thereby increasing the stability of textiles. Additionally, this technique reduces fiber distortion and breakage, thereby enhancing the durability of textiles. Conversely, the rotary tie-dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, resulting in reduced stability and increased susceptibility to fiber breakage, thereby decreasing the durability of textiles.

Through experimentation and analysis, this study reveals that different tie-dyeing techniques have varying effects on textile durability. The folding and clamping dyeing technique enhances the tensile strength, abrasion resistance, stability, and durability of textiles, while the stitching and binding dyeing technique decreases these performance indicators.

The mechanisms by which tie-dyeing techniques improve textile durability are primarily attributed to the changes in textile structure. The folding and clamping dyeing technique aligns the fibers more parallel, which reduces fiber distortion and breakage, thus enhancing the tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and durability of textiles. Additionally, this technique increases the stability of textiles, ensuring their shape and size remain unchanged.

Conversely, the stitching and binding dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, which results in increased friction between fibers, leading to decreased tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and durability of textiles. Moreover, the stitching and binding technique reduces the stability of textiles, causing them to lose shape and size stability.

The impact of the folding and clamping dyeing technique on textiles is relatively minor. The knotting and binding dyeing technique tilts the fibers, which increases the surface area of the fibers, thus enhancing the abrasion resistance of textiles. However, the knotting and binding technique does not significantly improve the tensile strength and stability of textiles.

Therefore, tie-dyeing techniques play an important role in textile production. By altering the direction and structure of fibers, different tie-dyeing techniques can impart different performance indicators to textiles. The folding and clamping dye method can enhance the tensile strength, wear resistance, and water resistance of textiles, while the stitch and bind dye technique will lower these performance indicators. The knotting and binding dyeing technique has a relatively minor impact, mainly improving the abrasion resistance of textiles. Therefore, brands like Valentino, Altuzarra, and others introduced tie-dye techniques into the fashion industry in 2016. They predominantly used techniques such as stitch and bind dyeing and folding and clamping dyeing. Even today, major brands, including luxury brands like Dior and Chanel, continue to incorporate these tie-dye techniques, such as stitch and bind dyeing, folding and clamping dyeing, or direct dyeing, in designing high-end clothing, adding utilitarian and strong cultural value to their entire fashion collections.

Experimental results demonstrate that different tie-dyeing techniques have varying effects on the appearance and hand feel of textiles. The direct dyeing technique results in a smooth and even surface, soft hand feel, and good appearance quality of textiles. The stitching and binding dyeing technique creates an uneven surface texture, affecting the hand feel and resulting in poorer appearance quality. The folding and clamping dyeing technique has a relatively minor impact on the appearance and hand feel of textiles.

The impact of tie-dyeing techniques on the appearance and hand feel of textiles is primarily due to changes in fiber alignment and structure. The direct dyeing technique aligns the fibers more parallel, resulting in a smoother and more even surface texture of textiles and a softer hand feel. Conversely, the stitching and binding dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, leading to an uneven surface texture, a compromised hand feel, and poorer appearance quality of textiles.

Tie-dyeing techniques also have an influence on the texture and color of textiles. Experimental results indicate that different tie-dyeing techniques produce different texture effects. The direct dyeing technique creates distinct parallel textures on textiles, while the stitching and binding dyeing technique results in a crossed texture. The folding and clamping dyeing technique has a relatively minor impact on the texture of textiles. Changes in fabric color due to different tie-dyeing methods are illustrated in Figure 4. Through tie-dye techniques, it is possible to effectively enhance the texture of patterns in textile printing, addressing issues like pattern flatness and monotonous colors. As mentioned in the article Indonesian Tie-Dye Exploration with Fabric Manipulation, “Furthermore, the texture has the ability to cover the printed pattern developed from the tie-dye technique for both the perfect and imperfect pattern made from the improper binding technique” [16].

Fig. 4.

Additionally, tie-dyeing techniques also affect the color of textiles. By employing different tie-dyeing techniques and utilizing the texture of materials to create varying projections under light and shadow, [17] the brightness, depth, and visual effects of textiles can be altered. The stitching and binding dyeing technique can make the color of textiles more vibrant and bright, while the folding and clamping dyeing technique does not significantly change the color.

The impact of tie-dyeing techniques on the aesthetics of textiles is mainly due to the changes they induce in the fiber alignment and structure, subsequently affecting the appearance, hand feel, texture, and color of textiles. Specifically, the direct dyeing technique aligns the fibers more parallel, resulting in a smoother, more even surface and a softer hand feel of textiles. The stitching and binding dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, leading to an uneven surface texture, compromised hand feel, and poorer appearance quality. The folding and clamping dyeing technique has a relatively minor impact on the aesthetics of textiles.

The mechanisms by which tie-dyeing techniques influence the aesthetics of textiles primarily involve changes in fiber alignment and structure, subsequently affecting the appearance, hand feel, texture, and color of textiles. Furthermore, different tie-dyeing techniques can also impact the dyeing effects, thereby influencing the color of textiles.

In summary, the impact of tie-dyeing techniques on the aesthetics of textiles is mainly attributed to the changes they induce in the fiber alignment and structure, subsequently affecting the appearance, hand feel, texture, and color of textiles. By selecting appropriate tie-dyeing techniques and dyeing methods, the aesthetics of textiles can be further enhanced.

In this experiment, the influence of various tie-dye techniques on the durability and aesthetic appeal of textiles was tested through methods such as tensile testing, abrasion testing, water resistance testing, and aesthetic testing. The experimental results demonstrate that tie-dyeing techniques have a significant impact on the durability and aesthetics of textiles.

Firstly, different tie-dye techniques have varying degrees of impact on the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles. The folding and clamping dye method significantly enhances the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles, with a dry and wet friction colorfastness rating of 5 and 4, respectively. On the other hand, the stitch and bind dye method reduces the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles, with longitudinal and transverse rupture tensile strengths of 472 N and 389 N, respectively, and the best elongation at rupture. The direct dye method has a relatively minor effect on the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of textiles, with dry and wet friction colorfastness ratings of 5 and 3, respectively. This is because different tie-dyeing techniques affect the fiber alignment and structure, subsequently influencing the mechanical properties of textiles. The folding and clamping dyeing technique aligns the fibers more parallel, resulting in improved mechanical stability of textiles, while the stitching and binding dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, leading to decreased mechanical properties of textiles.

Secondly, different tie-dyeing techniques also have varying effects on the stability and durability of textiles. Direct dyeing technique can significantly enhance the stability and durability of textiles, while stitching and binding dyeing technique can decrease them. This is because different tie-dyeing techniques affect the fiber alignment and structure, subsequently influencing the dimensional stability and tensile properties of textiles. Folding and clamping dyeing technique aligns the fibers more parallel, resulting in higher dimensional stability of textiles, while stitching and binding dyeing technique causes fiber distortion and intertwining, leading to unstable dimensions and susceptibility to damage in textiles.

Thirdly, different tie-dyeing techniques also have an impact on the appearance quality, hand feel, texture, and color of textiles. The direct dyeing technique can make the surface of textiles smoother and the hand feel softer, while the stitching and binding dyeing technique can cause wrinkles and creases on the surface, resulting in a harder hand feel. The folding and clamping dyeing technique can create unique diagonal texture effects, giving textiles a distinct appearance and hand feel. Moreover, different tie-dyeing techniques also affect the color depth and color distribution of textiles, making the color expression of textiles more diverse.

From the experimental results above, it can be observed that different tie-dyeing techniques have a significant impact on the durability and aesthetics of textiles. Folding and clamping dyeing technique can significantly enhance the durability and aesthetics of textiles, while the stitching and binding dyeing technique can decrease them. The impact of the knotting and tying dyeing technique on textiles is relatively minor. This is because different tie-dyeing techniques have different effects on the fiber alignment and structure, subsequently influencing the mechanical properties, dimensional stability, and appearance quality of textiles.

It should be noted that different fiber materials and yarn specifications can also influence the extent and differences of the impact of tie-dyeing techniques on textiles. For example, the effects of tie-dyeing techniques may vary on different fiber materials, such as cotton yarn and polyester yarn. Additionally, the implementation methods and technical parameters of tie-dyeing techniques can also have an influence on textiles. Therefore, in practical applications, it is necessary to select appropriate tie-dyeing techniques and implementation parameters based on different fiber materials and yarn specifications to achieve the optimal performance and aesthetics of textiles.