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Application of Gan Embroidery (Yuzhang Embroidery) in Neo-Chinese-style Woolen Clothing with the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage

Yanping Lin

Yanping Lin

Jiangxi Centre for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, Jiangxi Institute of Fashion TechnologyNanchang City, China
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Lin, Yanping
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Hongkun Li

Hongkun Li

Department of Business and Industry, Jinan Engineering PolytechnicJinan City, China
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Li, Hongkun
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Ying Dai

Ying Dai

Jiangxi Centre for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, Jiangxi Institute of Fashion TechnologyNanchang City, China
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Dai, Ying
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Zhenzhen Zhang

Zhenzhen Zhang

Jiangxi Centre for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, Jiangxi Institute of Fashion TechnologyNanchang City, China
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Zhang, Zhenzhen
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Chen Yang

Chen Yang

Jiangxi Centre for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, Jiangxi Institute of Fashion TechnologyNanchang City, China
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Yang, Chen
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Liyang Zhang

Liyang Zhang

Jiangxi Centre for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, Jiangxi Institute of Fashion TechnologyNanchang City, China
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Zhang, Liyang
  
30 paź 2024
Application of Gan Embroidery (Yuzhang Embroidery) in Neo-Chinese-style Woolen Clothing with the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage's Cover Image
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Kategoria artykułu: Research Article
Data publikacji: 30 paź 2024
Zakres stron: 15 - 26
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2024-0028
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© 2024 Yanping Lin et al., published by Sciendo
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Fig. 1.

M essential’s Shirt1http://www.360doc.com/content/23/0115/22/49854881_1063813878.shtml, 2024-06-29
M essential’s Shirt1http://www.360doc.com/content/23/0115/22/49854881_1063813878.shtml, 2024-06-29

Fig. 2.

2021 Chu Heting Xiang “Wenchat” Serieshttps://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1695369526300962631&wfr=spider&for=pc, 2024-06-29
2021 Chu Heting Xiang “Wenchat” Serieshttps://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1695369526300962631&wfr=spider&for=pc, 2024-06-29

Fig. 3.

Gaiya Legend 2022 Spring/Summer Collection “Qiankun Fangyi”https://m.hnmdtv.com/sy/092021_86644.html, 2024-06-29
Gaiya Legend 2022 Spring/Summer Collection “Qiankun Fangyi”https://m.hnmdtv.com/sy/092021_86644.html, 2024-06-29

Fig. 5.

Stand-up Collar Cape and Modified Horse-Face Skirthttp://china.cnr.cn/xwwgf/201403/t20140323_515138885.shtml, 2024-06-29
Stand-up Collar Cape and Modified Horse-Face Skirthttp://china.cnr.cn/xwwgf/201403/t20140323_515138885.shtml, 2024-06-29

Fig. 6.

Shenyi New Neo-Chinese Woolen Coathttps://mms2.baidu.com/it/u=344190897,1878927431&fm=253&app=138&f=JPEGw=500&h=672, 2024-06-29
Shenyi New Neo-Chinese Woolen Coathttps://mms2.baidu.com/it/u=344190897,1878927431&fm=253&app=138&f=JPEGw=500&h=672, 2024-06-29

Fig. 7.

Moyu New Neo-Chinese Woolen Coathttps://mms0.baidu.com/it/u=2379786576,2897283807&fm=253&app=138&f=JPEGw=500&h=500, 2024-06-29
Moyu New Neo-Chinese Woolen Coathttps://mms0.baidu.com/it/u=2379786576,2897283807&fm=253&app=138&f=JPEGw=500&h=500, 2024-06-29

Typical Gan Embroidery Techniques

Name Bada Shanren Ink Painting (Deer Picture) Representative Work “The Horse and the Rider” Representative Work “Eagle in an Empty Valley”
Artwork 1 2 3
Description Primarily employs floating stitches and flat stitches, using dozens of colors of ink silk threads with various thickness and shades. The artwork displays distinct layers, replicating the nuances of color and the profound artistic conception found in the original painting, enhancing its three-dimensionality. Utilizes hairpin and scattered overlay stitches, employing silk threads to create a second reworking of the artwork, resulting in a simple and bold composition. Utilizes the unique Gan Embroidery stitching techniques, along with dozens of silk thread colors with varying thickness and shades for a second reworking of the artwork. The artwork exhibits clear layers and accurately conveys color variations, evoking a natural and deep artistic ambiance. It possesses a natural, elegant, and refreshing aesthetic.

Illustrations of Seed Stitch, Lock Stitch, and Random Stitch Techniques

Type Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Example
Seed Stitch First, start the needle, hold the thread with the left hand, and wrap the thread around the needle a couple of times. Insert the needle beside the starting point, on the right side of the upward thread. The left hand keeps the thread tight against the fabric, then pull out the needle to create a small dot.
Lock Stitch Start the needle at any point, beside the starting point, and create a thread loop on the fabric's surface. Then, start the needle, securing the loop. Drop the needle at the starting point of the second stitch to form a second ring, then start the needle to fasten the second ring; and so on. Embroider according to the pattern. N/A
Random Stitch Arrange the specific stitches according to the shape of the embroidery pattern, and complete the first layer of stitches. On the basis of the first layer, use different colors of thread to perform overlapping stitches. N/A

Illustration of Overlay Stitch Techniques

Type Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Example
Single Overlay Stitch Begin by embroidering the center of the pattern. Proceed with the right half, alternating between long and short stitches, embroidering the right side. Once the right half is complete, embroider the left half. After completing the outermost layer, add a second layer with different color threads. Each stitch should align with the previous layer's long and short stitches. Create a third layer in a similar fashion using alternating long and short stitches to fill the pattern.
Double Overlay Stitch In the first batch, start the needle from the center and ensure even stitches on the pattern's edge. Maintain straight stitches with no slanting. The thickness of the stitches should be consistent, and the texture should be uniform. In the second batch, use a darker color than the first batch. Start the needle at the location where the first batch's stitches fall. The distance between stitches should match the thickness of the lines. In the third batch, start the needle at the location where the second batch's stitches fall. Alternate between long and short stitches and use even thicker thread to completely fill

Examples of Multiple-Part Combinations in this Study

Two-Part Combinations Sleeve and Garment Body Sleeve and Cuff Sleeve and Hem Front Closure and Cuff Front Closure and Sleeve Front Closure and Collar
Garment Body and Hem Garment Body and Cuff Garment Body and Hem
Multiple-Part Combinations Collar, Sleeve, and Hem Collar, Garment Body, and Cuff Collar, Front Closure, and Cuff Front Closure, Cuff, and Sleeve Front Closure, Sleeve, and Collar Front Closure, Cuff, and Hem

Examples of Individual Part Applications in this Study

Sleeve Sections right lower sleeve and left sleeve cap sleeve elbow sleeve cap and sleeve bottom cuff
Collar Sections collar facing (lapel) collar body (lapel) collar body (stand collar)
Garment Body Sections right front chest left and right front chests waist
Lower hem placket parts lower right hem left and right lower hem upper right end placket right placket
Język:
Angielski
Częstotliwość wydawania:
Volume Open
Dziedziny czasopisma:
Biznes i ekonomia, Zarządzanie biznesem, Informatyka biznesowa, Zarządzanie procesem, Chemia przemysłowa, Celuloza, papier i tekstylia, Nauka i technologia polimerów, Nauka o materiałach, Biomateriały i materiały naturalne
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