Evolution and Innovative Design of Cloud Shoulder Adornments in Ming and Qing Dynasties from the Perspective of Hanfu Elements

(1) Simplification of Appearance: In the late Ming dynasty, the cloud shoulder already had a certain decorative nature. During the early to late Qing dynasty, the use of gold and silver embellishments decreased, and people began to pay attention to the internal structure and aesthetic beauty of the four-piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder. This shift indicates a gradual transition in people’s pursuit of clothing aesthetics from surface extravagance to inner quality [7–8].

(2) Refinement of Shape and Lines: In the late Ming dynasty, the cloud shoulder adopted the four-piece Ruyi-shaped design, with the four Ruyi cloud motifs connected around the neck. The simple heart-shaped Ruyi motif in the early Qing dynasty evolved into a complex longevity lock shape in the late Qing dynasty, with lines becoming more intricate, transitioning from a single-line edge frame to a double-line edge structure. This change reflects the development of aesthetic preferences of the time and the fine pursuit of patterns and shapes.

(3) Increasing Layers: The single-layered cloud shoulder design in the late Ming dynasty developed into two-layered, three-layered, or even multi-layered cloud shoulders with different orientations during the early Qing dynasty. This layered design added a sense of three-dimensionality and visual impact to the cloud shoulder, making it more attractive in clothing.

From the late Ming dynasty to the late Qing dynasty, tassels became fewer and simpler, with a reduction in gold and silver jewelry, gemstones, and bell ornaments on the tassels. This change signifies the shift in aesthetic preferences towards simplicity and elegance from the previous complexity and grandeur.

From the late Ming dynasty to the Qing dynasty, the evolution of patterns in the four-piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder underwent a process of simplicity to complexity and from uniformity to diversity, reflecting the changes in aesthetic preferences and the exploration of clothing pattern designs.

In the late Ming dynasty, the cloud shoulder was worn as an open garment. As time went on, during the early to middle Qing dynasty, it was paired with a jacket or changyi and worn with a mianqun as the lower garment. By the late Qing dynasty, an overlapping wearing style emerged, incorporating a stand-up collar structure and securing the cloud shoulder with ropes to prevent it from falling off. These changes reflect the constant adjustment of social trends and the balanced pursuit of comfort and aesthetics by the wearers.

In conclusion, from the perspective of Hanfu elements, the four-piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder underwent significant evolutions in shape, patterns, and wearing styles from the late Ming dynasty to the late Qing dynasty. The design of the cloud shoulder gradually developed from a simple style to a complex and diverse artistic form, continuously enriching and expanding the design elements and aesthetic connotations of the cloud shoulder. These changes reflect the development of aesthetic preferences of the time and the exploration of clothing pattern designs, as well as a shift in people’s pursuit of clothing aesthetics from surface extravagance to inner quality.

In the AW 2020 collection, the WOO brand introduced a digitally printed scarf called “Yunxia Yingri” ingeniously incorporating the four-piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder element into the print design, capturing the essence of Oriental artistic aesthetics and auspiciousness. The vibrant red and orange colors evoke the image of colorful clouds elegantly surrounding the wearer’s shoulders and neck, exuding an Eastern charm (see Figure 1 and Figure 2).

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.

In terms of color application, the scarf features a contrast between the inner part, mainly in purple, and the outer part in orange, with a blue border, delineating a distinct outline. Additionally, the designer retained the fringe edge element of the Qing dynasty’s tassels for embellishment. In terms of silhouette, the scarf centers around half of the four-piece Ruyi-shaped motif, with overlapping layers of the four-piece Ruyi-shaped design, showcasing a rich sense of depth. In terms of patterns, the designer incorporates original floral and animal elements, with a focus on interactions between flowers such as plum blossoms and chrysanthemums and auspicious birds such as phoenixes, creating a natural ecological landscape.

The WOO brand has always adhered to respecting traditional artistic expressions and relentlessly pursued innovation. Through collaborations with Western artists, they draw inspiration from a rich artistic background, imparting profound significance to their creations. In WOO’s works, we can see countless inspirations from various fields such as art, history, philosophy, and the humanities, injecting unique charm into modern fashion designs.

In the Gaia Legend brand’s 2020 Spring/Summer collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week, the cloud shoulder element was creatively applied, perfectly integrating classical traditional culture with contemporary fashion, creating an elegant, dignified, and magnificent new era of Eastern aesthetics. This innovative design draws inspiration not only from traditional opera themes but also from excellent traditional Chinese culture and intangible cultural heritage, aiming to highlight the beauty of details through craftsmanship, pattern design, and fabric textures. Gaia Legend’s combination of Chinese and Western influences, along with its inclusive nature, has attracted significant attention in both domestic and international markets, showcasing the charm of Chinese traditional clothing culture, which is full of fashion and innovation.

In Gaia Legend’s Paris Fashion Week show, the cloud shoulder element was skillfully extracted and incorporated into the details of designs such as pockets and cuffs, showcasing the brand’s unique design concepts. For example, in the wedding attire of a talented scholar and a beautiful lady, the cloud shoulder design with a double-layered circular shape is combined with intricate embroidery craftsmanship, presenting a dazzling artistic effect. The cloud shoulder design in the Peony Pavilion series (see Figure 3) creates a dynamic feel through techniques such as embroidery and beadwork, resembling tassels. Additionally, Gaia Legend conceived a unique design concept by combining the cloud shoulder with the Mandarin collar in the Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder design (see Figure 4).

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Fig. 4.

Gaia Legend’s innovative design of the cloud shoulder in the “戏韵·梦浮生” (Drama Rhythm · Dream Floating Life) fashion show embodies a modern interpretation and stylish representation of traditional elements. As an important element of Hanfu, the cloud shoulder represents nobility, grandeur, and auspiciousness. By incorporating the cloud shoulder element into the details of the garments, Gaia Legend successfully showcases respect and homage to Chinese traditional culture and infuses it into contemporary fashion design. This innovative design not only pursues aesthetics but also conveys the classic symbols and meanings of Chinese culture, as well as the brand’s integration and inclusiveness of diverse cultures. Through the fusion of Chinese and Western cultures, Gaia Legend’s designs possess both the elegance and mystery of the East, as well as the avant-garde and boldness of Western fashion, presenting a powerful and unique aura.

In conclusion, the innovative design of the cloud shoulder presented by Gaia Legend in the “戏韵·梦浮生” fashion show showcases a unique interpretation and modern reinterpretation of traditional culture. Through meticulous design details, Gaia Legend successfully integrates the cloud shoulder element into the garments, displaying an elegant, dignified, and magnificent new era of Eastern aesthetics. This innovative design not only conveys the classic cultural elements of Chinese mythology but also garners high attention and recognition in domestic and international markets, further promoting the fashion development of Chinese traditional clothing culture.

In summary, the innovative application of the Four-Piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder in modern fashion demonstrates the potential of combining Chinese traditional culture with contemporary design aesthetics. Through creative interpretations and adaptations, designers can infuse new vitality into long-standing elements and contribute to the continuous revival and preservation of Chinese traditional culture. As our society continues to develop, it is crucial to strike a balance between preserving our rich cultural heritage and embracing the possibilities offered by new technologies, ensuring that the beauty of traditional craftsmanship remains relevant and appreciated by future generations.

Layered design involves fabric stacking and overlay on the basis of the cloud shoulder prototype to enrich its shape and enhance its decorative appeal. It is a method of simplification followed by complexity. By employing cutting and simplification techniques, variation of the four-piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder’s form is achieved, creating a rhythm of density, variations in the weight of yarn and satin, and the processing and recombination of textural effects. Three to four layers of fabric are stacked on the sheet-like structure of the left and right cloud shoulders, combining a satin material with a patterned textural feel and a lightweight and transparent organza. Handcrafted metal fringe elements are added to the bottom layer to enhance visual richness, as shown in Table 3.

Material innovation involves the creative transformation of fabrics based on ancient cloud shoulder forms, utilizing different expressions to create cloud shoulders with diverse textures and enhance their modern aesthetic. In the Ming and Qing periods, cloud shoulder adornments primarily utilized silk fabrics. In this design, silk is replaced with metal materials, breaking traditional norms and transforming the delicate image of cloud shoulders into a three-dimensional, robust metallic texture with a trendy national style. This achieves a transition from a flat to a three-dimensional effect, as demonstrated in Case 1 of Table 4. While retaining the original shape and tassel elements, a ruby is centrally placed, and metal blocks are added internally. Additionally, platinum material is used for the outer frame of the design, as shown in Case 2 in Table 4. Combining a buckle and fringe at the hanging part creates a dazzling visual effect, replacing the intricate patterns of ancient times and presenting an overall sense of elegance and grandeur.

By combining traditional cloud shoulder decorative elements with modern culture, a cloud shoulder combination with a complete form and harmonious color tones is created, as shown in Figure 5. Based on the original form of the traditional cloud shoulder, variations are made to the four-piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder and fused with the virtual cloud shoulder sheet structure from modern technology. By incorporating modern aesthetics and innovative design techniques into the sheet’s inner form, a clever fusion of form and meaning is achieved.

Fig. 5.

Through the innovative application of traditional cloud shoulder elements and the combination of modern design concepts and techniques, we can create works that embody both traditional charm and modern aesthetics. This fusion not only demonstrates respect for and the inheritance of traditional culture but also showcases the pursuit of and innovation in modern aesthetics [11]. In a globalized context, the combination of traditional and modern cultures contributes to the creation of unique works and provides new opportunities for the inheritance and development of traditional culture.

By combining traditional cloud shoulder decorative elements with modern culture, a cloud shoulder combination with a complete form and harmonious color tones is created, as shown in Figure 6. Based on the original form of the traditional cloud shoulder, variations are made to the Four-Piece Ruyi-shaped cloud shoulder and fused with the virtual cloud shoulder sheet structure from modern technology. By incorporating modern aesthetics and innovative design techniques into the sheet’s inner form, a clever fusion of form and meaning is achieved.

Fig. 6:

Through the innovative application of traditional cloud shoulder elements and the combination of modern design concepts and techniques, we can create works that embody both traditional charm and modern aesthetics. This fusion not only demonstrates respect for and the inheritance of traditional culture but also showcases the pursuit of and innovation in modern aesthetics. In a globalized context, the combination of traditional and modern cultures contributes to the creation of unique works and provides new opportunities for the inheritance and development of traditional culture.

Cloud shoulders from the Ming and Qing dynasties are rich in cultural connotations.

They not only serve as garments but also represent Chinese culture. The concept of cloud shoulders aligns with the artistic conception of Chinese architecture, creating an aesthetic exchange [12].

For example, ancient Chinese palace architecture emphasized squareness and harmony, with typical celestial buildings of the Ming and Qing dynasties symbolizing the landscape concept of “the circular heaven and the square earth.” Observing the overall form of Chinese clothing’s cloud shoulders, when viewed from a flat perspective, the outer circle and inner square symbolize the circular heaven and square earth. When viewed three-dimensionally, when worn on the body, the perception is similar to celestial architecture. Initially, cloud shoulders originated from preventing clothing from getting dirty during meals but gradually evolved into a type of daily attire, presenting more decorative aspects.

The “Alloy Prism” series incorporates modern and Western elements into the ancient cloud shoulder form, showcasing innovation and uniqueness through the fusion of Chinese and Western cultures. In modern society, cloud shoulders have shifted from practicality to decoration. For women, the decorative aspect of attire outweighs its practicality, and cloud shoulders serve as adornments. The slightly wider shoulder-cut design better accentuates the shoulder line, creating a straight and well-defined appearance. A gemstone is embedded in the middle of the cloud shoulder, and symmetrical, centralized, and layout techniques of dots, lines, and planes are employed to construct the internal structure of the cloud shoulder. The overall design is based on a black foundation, with gold foil wrapping the edges. The fabric on both sides is layered, creating a sense of spatial complexity. The overall structure uses a metal framework, and the center and sides are fixed with metal fasteners, forming detachable cloud shoulders, as shown in Figure 7.

Fig. 7.

In today’s society, people’s pursuit of clothing goes beyond the garments themselves. They also seek complementary and complete accessories, such as matching bags, jewelry, makeup, and shoes. The jewelry piece in the “Alloy Prism” series is an earring. The earrings come in various styles, with exquisite craftsmanship, and diverse aesthetics, allowing for different choices based on one’s status, occasion, and season. While retaining the outline of the four-piece Ruyi shape, the designer employs the outer shape of the four-piece Ruyi as the earring’s design, composed of four Ruyi patterns, with an overall color scheme of palace blue. A pearl is placed in the center, symbolizing auspiciousness and fulfillment. One earring is long and adorned with a metal fringe and small metal beads, complementing the innovative fringe elements in the cloud shoulder design. The other earring is shorter and embedded with four bells, symbolizing smoothness in all endeavors. With one earring longer than the other, they are arranged in an artful manner, forming a complete set with the cloud shoulder. When worn together, they exude a sense of retro elegance, as shown in Figure 8.

Fig. 8.

The innovative design of the “Alloy Prism” series cloud shoulder, based on the ancient cloud shoulder, combines modern and Western elements, showcasing innovation and uniqueness resulting from the fusion of Chinese and Western cultures. This design not only breaks the limitations of traditional cloud shoulders but also broadens their application in modern fashion, offering more choices for women to complement their outfits and showcasing the perfect blend of fashion and elegance.