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Structural and Physiological Properties of Footwear Textiles

Patrycja Kaziur
Patrycja Kaziur
 e 
Zbigniew Mikołajczyk
Zbigniew Mikołajczyk
   | 01 dic 2023
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Article Category: Research Article
Pubblicato online: 01 dic 2023
Pagine: 75 - 85
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2023-0047
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© 2023 Łukasiewicz Research Network-Łódź Institute of Technology, published by Sciendo
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Fig. 1.

Adidas footwear model used for the research
Adidas footwear model used for the research

Fig. 2.

Sprandi footwear model used for the research
Sprandi footwear model used for the research

List of materials with characteristics

Textile materials
Variant number Top side Bottom side Knitting technology Yarns Weave
1 large diameter cylindrical crochet machine (Mayer & Cie, OVJA 1.6 EE 3/2 ET) PES dtex 167 f 32/1 x 3, PES dtex 330 f 72/4 modified incomplete four-color jacquard with a filling in the form of a thread in each row
2 large diameter cylindrical crochet machine (Mayer & Cie, OVJA 1.6 EE 3 WT) PES dtex 167/1, Elastan dtex 44 full two-color jacquard (in some areas there is a jacquard with a modified structure causing an openwork effect)
3 large diameter cylindrical crochet machine (Mayer & Cie, OVJA 1.6 EE 3/2 ET) PES dtex 167/1 incomplete four-color double-sided jacquard
4 large diameter cylindrical crochet machine (Mayer & Cie) PES dtex 167/1 incomplete three-color jacquard (in some areas there is a jacquard with a modified structure causing an openwork effect)
5 small diameter cylindrical crochet machine PES 450 dtex striped jacquard (alternating leftright and jacquard weave stripes)
6 flat knitting machine (CMS 502 HP B multi gauge E7.2) PES dtex 167/32/1, Elastan dtex 156 two-layer knitted fabric with a tuck stitch system
7 flat knitting machine (CMS ADF-3 E7.2) PES dtex 167/32/1, Elastan dtex 156, Hot Melt 220 dtex two-layer knitted fabric composed of three weave systems: jacquard, openwork and tuck stitches
8 flat knitting machine (CMS 330 HP W TT sport E7.2) PES 167 dtex, Lycra 156 dtex two-layer knitted fabric with openwork weave areas
9 flat knitting machine (CMS 330 HP W TT sport E7.2) PES 167 dtex, Lycra 156 dtex two-layer knitted fabric with openwork and jacquard weave areas
10 flat knitting machine (CMS 502 HP+ multi gauge E7.2) PES 167 dtex, Lycra 156 dtex two-layer knitted fabric composed of jacquard (positivenegative) and openwork weave systems
Commercial textile uppers
11 The upper consists of two knitted fabrics connected with an embroidery thread, the upper part is made of a two-layer knitted fabric joined with tucks, the bottom is an interlock knitted fabric
12 Two-layer knitted fabric combined with tuck stitches and an openwork weave
Leather materials
13 Chrome-tanned cow leather, vegetable-syntan retanning, polished face finished by pouring using roll coater, fixed with a water-based polyurethane varnish
14 Chrome-tanned cow leather, chrome-syntan retanning

Results of the sorption properties of the tested variants - relative values in the ranking scale 1-5

Variant number Wetting time of top surface, WTT 1-5 Wetting time of bottom surface, WTB 1-5 Absorption rate of top surface, TAR, 1-5 Absorption rate of bottom surface, BAR 1-5 Maximum wetting radius for top surface, MWRT 1-5 Maximum wetting radius for bottom surface, MWRB 1-5 Spreading speed on top surface, TSS 1-5 Spreading speed on bottom surface, BSS 1-5 Accumulative one-way transport index, R 1-5 Overall moisture management capacity, OMMC 1-5
1 3.25 3 1.5 1.5 2 2 2 2 1.25 1
2 3 3.25 2.5 2.75 2.5 2 1 1 3.75 2.75
3 2.5 3.5 3 3.5 2 2 1 1 3 2
4 4.25 4.25 3 3 4 4 4 4 2 2.25
5 3.5 3 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1
6 - - - - - - - - - -
7 - - - - - - - - - -
8 3.5 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
9 3.5 3 1 1 2 1 1.5 1 1.5 1
10 - - - - - - - - - -
11 3.5 2 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
12 4 35 2 2.5 2 3 2 2.5 2.5 2
13 - - - - - - - - - -
14 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1

Results of measurements of structural parameters

Variant number Thickness, h mm Mass per square meter, Mp g/m2 Course density, Pr number of courses/dm Wale density, Pk number of wales/dm Loop width, A mm Loop height, B mm Loop shape coefficient, C
1 1.91 730 37 71 1.41 2.70 1.92
2 1.56 372 98 93 1.08 1.02 0.95
3 1.70 488 77 89 1.12 1.30 1.16
4 1.48 348 97 86 1.16 1.03 0.89
5 3.55 973 122 72 1.39 0.82 0.59
6 3.18 1219 88 59 1.69 1.14 0.67
7 3.15 1024 89 59 1.69 1.12 0.66
8 3.44 984 122 80 1.25 0.82 0.66
9 3.48 1173 108 76 1.32 0.93 0.70
10 3.49 1089 106 79 1.27 0.94 0.75
11 2.42 915 - - - - -
11a 1.74 750 70 52 1.92 1.43 0.74
11b 0.68 165 198 162 0.62 0.51 0.82
12 2.47 1147 118 68 1.47 0.85 0.58
13 1.80 1009 - - - - -
14 1.45 905 - - - - -

Results of measurements of water vapor permeability

Variant number Relative water vapor permeability, RWVP % Water vapor resistance, Ret Pa · m2 · W-1
1 41.4 10.0
2 61.0 4.4
3 52.1 6.4
4 56.1 5.3
5 22.7 23.2
6 51.0 6.2
7 33.2 12.9
8 31.1 14.2
9 22.7 22.0
10 24.2 10.1
11 28.0 16.6
12 29.5 15.3
13 0.0 0.0
14 31.1 14.6

Results of sorption properties of tested variants - absolute values

Variant number Wetting time of top surface, WTT s Wetting time of bottom surface, WTB s Absorption rate of top surface, TAR, %/s Absorption rate of bottom surface, BAR %/s Maximum wetting radius for top surface, MWRT mm Maximum wetting radius for bottom surface, MWRB mm Spreading speed on top surface, TSS mm/s Spreading speed on bottom surface, BSS mm/s Accumulative one-way transport index, R - Overall moisture management capacity, OMMC -
1 8.658 12.823 13.604 12.506 7.500 7.500 1.234 1.127 -45.566 0.076
2 1.742 9.828 26.865 36.422 12.500 10.000 0.666 0.696 261.570 0.420
3 21.528 8.517 41.943 51.433 10.000 10.000 0.484 0.741 129.866 0.315
4 3.464 3.604 40.290 42.022 20.000 20.000 3.546 3.433 13.622 0.362
5 7.676 11.326 18.379 21.517 10.000 10.000 1.489 0.899 9.422 0.100
6 - - - - - - - - - -
7 - - - - - - - - - -
8 6.271 120.000 78.578 0.000 5.000 0.000 0.774 0.000 -936.689 0.000
9 5.897 14.040 6.918 8.558 10.000 5.000 1.176 0.351 -29.673 0.023
10 - - - - - - - - - -
11 7.020 50.544 81.606 5.012 5.000 5.000 0.694 0.099 -941.899 0.000
12 4.212 4.587 20.884 25.140 10.000 15.000 1.665 2.106 97.732 0.298
13 - - - - - - - - - -
14 120.000 120.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 6.717 0.060

Results of measurements of air permeability

Variant number Air permeability, P dm3/m2s
1 417.36
2 1422.80
3 1014.93
4 1588.79
5 275.08
6 882.14
7 1688.39
8 882.14
9 1432.29
10 264.64
11 986.48
12 327.25
13 0.00
14 0.86

Results of measurements of thermal-insulating properties measured on the Alambeta device

Variant number Thickness, h Thermal conductivity, λ Thermal diffusion, a Thermal absorption, b Thermal resistance, r Relative thermal resistance related to material thickness, rrel Maximal and stationary heat flow quotient, I Stationary heat flow density at contact point, s
mm 10-3W · m-1 · K-1 10-6 m2 · s-1 W · m-2 · s1/2 ·K-1 10-3 W-1 · K ·m2 W-1 · K ·m - W · K · m-2
1 2.44 51.2 0.243 104.0 47.6 19.51 2.01 0.295
2 1.53 42.4 0.179 100.0 36.1 23.59 1.87 0.359
3 1.73 55.6 0.182 130.0 31.0 17.92 2.16 0.477
4 1.53 48.8 0.175 117.0 31.3 20.46 1.96 0.457
5 4.21 55.3 0.836 60.5 76.2 18.10 1.98 0.181
6 3.25 59.0 0.772 67.1 55.1 16.95 1.52 0.190
7 3.59 51.9 0.145 136.0 69.3 19.30 3.10 0.305
8 4.21 53.2 0.321 93.9 79.2 18.81 1.76 0.163
9 4.77 50.9 0.495 72.4 93.6 19.62 1.51 0.118
10 3.50 66.3 0.452 98.7 52.8 15.09 1.50 0.195
11 2.78 51.4 0.162 128.0 54.0 19.42 3.13 0.392
12 4.65 47.0 0.630 59.2 98.8 21.25 1.55 0.109
13 1.58 55.1 0.078 197.0 28.6 18.10 1.90 0.466
14 1.41 56.1 0.062 226.0 25.2 17.87 2.41 0.663
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