clothing |
Item |
Technic |
Threads |
Raw material |
Threads structure: twist [no of twists/cm; diameter [mm]; other characteristics for metal threads: wraps/cm; strip width [mm] |
Thread count n/ cm |
Other |
dalmatic |
main fabric |
taffeta |
warp |
silk |
S; 0,117 |
70 |
Figure 3. |
weft |
silk |
S; 0,205 |
53 |
embroidery |
running stitch |
|
silver gilt on silk core |
metal wrapped thread, doubled Z; thread diameter 0,8; single thread: 20 wraps/cm in S; strip width 0,41; silk core: S; 0,39 |
x |
Stitch length ca 13 mm. |
galloon 1 |
plain weave |
warp |
silver gilt on silk core |
metal wrapped thread, diameter 0,33; 18 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,48 |
29 |
Width of the galloon 13 mm (38 warp ends). Figure 3A. |
weft |
silver gilt on silk core |
metal wrapped thread, diameter 0,33; 18 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,48 |
4,5 |
galloon 2 |
rep and basket weaves, patterned |
warp |
silk |
plied 2S; 0,28 |
56 |
Width ca 21 mm (with loops and fringes). Figures 2B and 3B. |
main weft |
silk |
plied S2Z; 0,44 |
21 |
supplementary patterning weft |
silver gilt on silk core |
metal wrapped thread, diameter 0.35; 23 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,33 |
21 |
tassel |
braided |
|
silk |
S2(S2Z) 0,55 mm |
x |
Silk and metal thread on a wooden core. Figure 3. |
silver gilt on silk core |
metal wrapped thread, diameter 0.29; 19 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,32 |
x |
silver gilt on silk core, doubled |
doubled Z; single thread: 0,29 m; 19 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,32 |
x |
cope |
main fabric |
Gros de Tours, patterned and brocaded |
warp |
silk |
S; 0,15 |
64 |
Pattern repeat 17x15 cm. Selvedge 8,7 mm wide in rep. 52 warp ends: 12 green (g), 6 yellow (y), 10 g, 6 y, 6 g, 6 y, 6 g. Edge warp end – flax plied yarn. Figures 2A and 4. |
main weft |
silk |
Z; 0,18 |
44 |
supplementary patterning weft |
silver gilt |
flat metal thread, width 0,15 |
22 |
supplementary brocading weft - metal thread together with a fine silk thread. |
silver gilt on silk core |
metal wrapped thread, 22 wraps/cm in S direction; thread diameter 0,46; strip width 0,35; silk core: S, diameter 0,46 |
22 |
silk |
S; 0,07 |
doublet |
main fabric |
Gros de Naples brocaded |
warp |
silk |
Z2Z; 0,25 |
69 |
Pattern repeat 8,5x10 cm. Figure 5. |
|
main weft |
silk |
Doubled Z; 0,47 |
17 |
|
supplementary brocading weft |
silk |
S2Z; 0,67 |
17 |
lining |
taffeta |
warp |
silk |
S; 0,15 |
70 |
|
|
weft |
silk |
low twist; 0,15 |
50 |
vams laces |
flat braid |
|
silk |
S3Z ; 0,69 |
18 |
Width 9,5-10 mm. Figure 5D. |
doublet trimming |
background |
satin 4/1(2) |
warp |
silk |
0,15 |
92 |
Figure 5. Detail in Figure 5B. |
weft |
silk |
0,22 |
42 |
embroidery |
couching |
laid thread 1 |
silk |
plied thread: Z2(S2S); 0,62 |
|
laid thread 2 |
silk |
wrapped thread: doubled core (S; 0,49) wrapped in Z direction with doubled thread (S; 0,21); 18 wraps/ cm; total thickness 0,71 |
|
coaching thread |
silk |
doubled S2S; 0,26 |
|
half cross stitch |
|
silk |
doubled S2S; 0,35 |
|
alb |
main fabric |
taffeta |
warp |
silk |
doubled S; 0,17 |
63 |
Figure 6. |
weft |
silk |
doubled S; 0,21 |
46 |
trimming |
bobbin lace |
X |
silver gilt |
metal wrapped thread: thread diameter 0,48; 16 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,49 |
|
Width 20 mm. Figure 6. |
Cassock |
fabric |
5 ends satin |
warp |
silk |
S; 0,08 |
115 |
|
weft |
silk |
no visible twist; 0,21 |
46 |
coffin upholstery |
fabric |
solid velvet |
main warp |
silk |
S; 0,1 |
96 |
Grooved rod every 3 weft picks. Ground weave irregular broken twill. Figure 2C . |
pile warp |
silk |
S2; 0,17 |
32 |
weft |
silk |
very low Z; 0,17 |
51 |