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Burial Robes of the Polish King Sigismund III Vasa. Analysis of Textiles and Clothing

Maria Cybulska
Maria Cybulska
 e 
Anna Drążkowska
Anna Drążkowska
   | 01 dic 2023
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Article Category: Research Article
Pubblicato online: 01 dic 2023
Pagine: 34 - 42
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2023-0043
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© 2023 Łukasiewicz Research Network-Łódź Institute of Technology, published by Sciendo
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Fig. 1.

At the top: Remains of the Polish King Sigismund III Vasa, 3D scan by Jakub Curyło, Cybid company; at the bottom: in situ dalmatic and gloves, photos by Anna Drążkowska
At the top: Remains of the Polish King Sigismund III Vasa, 3D scan by Jakub Curyło, Cybid company; at the bottom: in situ dalmatic and gloves, photos by Anna Drążkowska

Fig. 3.

Dalmatic: silk taffeta embroidered with a metal wrapped thread, tassel and trimmings: A plain and B- patterned galloons. Photos by Maria Cybulska
Dalmatic: silk taffeta embroidered with a metal wrapped thread, tassel and trimmings: A plain and B- patterned galloons. Photos by Maria Cybulska

Fig. 2.

Weaving techniques: A. Fabric of the cope: Gros de Tours patterned and brocaded; B. Trimming of the dalmatic- patterned galloon with fringes and decorative loops; C. Coffin upholstery – solid velvet. Illustration by Maria Cybulska
Weaving techniques: A. Fabric of the cope: Gros de Tours patterned and brocaded; B. Trimming of the dalmatic- patterned galloon with fringes and decorative loops; C. Coffin upholstery – solid velvet. Illustration by Maria Cybulska

Fig. 4.

Fabric of the cope, Gros de Tours patterned and brocaded. At the bottom: details of the fabric face (on the left) and reverse (on the right). Photos by Maria Cybulska
Fabric of the cope, Gros de Tours patterned and brocaded. At the bottom: details of the fabric face (on the left) and reverse (on the right). Photos by Maria Cybulska

Fig. 5.

Fragment of doublet. A – detail of the main fabric, B – embroidered trimming, C- button, D lace. Photos by Maria Cybulska
Fragment of doublet. A – detail of the main fabric, B – embroidered trimming, C- button, D lace. Photos by Maria Cybulska

Fig. 6.

Alb, made of silk taffeta trimmed with a bobbin lace. Photos by Maria Cybulska
Alb, made of silk taffeta trimmed with a bobbin lace. Photos by Maria Cybulska

Fig. 7.

Portrait of King Sigismund III Vasa (1566-1632) by unknown painter, circa 1620, Museum of Zamość1
Portrait of King Sigismund III Vasa (1566-1632) by unknown painter, circa 1620, Museum of Zamość1

Fig. 8.

On the left: Pieter Soutman, Portrait of Sigismund III Vasa in coronation robes, painted circa 1624, Staatsgalerie Neuburg2, On the right:Christian Melich, Sigismund III Vasa on catafalque, 1633, dep. Wawel Castle3
On the left: Pieter Soutman, Portrait of Sigismund III Vasa in coronation robes, painted circa 1624, Staatsgalerie Neuburg2, On the right:Christian Melich, Sigismund III Vasa on catafalque, 1633, dep. Wawel Castle3

Results of analysis of textiles

clothing Item Technic Threads Raw material Threads structure: twist [no of twists/cm; diameter [mm]; other characteristics for metal threads: wraps/cm; strip width [mm] Thread count n/ cm Other
dalmatic main fabric taffeta warp silk S; 0,117 70 Figure 3.
weft silk S; 0,205 53
embroidery running stitch silver gilt on silk core metal wrapped thread, doubled Z; thread diameter 0,8; single thread: 20 wraps/cm in S; strip width 0,41; silk core: S; 0,39 x Stitch length ca 13 mm.
galloon 1 plain weave warp silver gilt on silk core metal wrapped thread, diameter 0,33; 18 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,48 29 Width of the galloon 13 mm (38 warp ends). Figure 3A.
weft silver gilt on silk core metal wrapped thread, diameter 0,33; 18 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,48 4,5
galloon 2 rep and basket weaves, patterned warp silk plied 2S; 0,28 56 Width ca 21 mm (with loops and fringes). Figures 2B and 3B.
main weft silk plied S2Z; 0,44 21
supplementary patterning weft silver gilt on silk core metal wrapped thread, diameter 0.35; 23 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,33 21
tassel braided   silk S2(S2Z) 0,55 mm x Silk and metal thread on a wooden core. Figure 3.
silver gilt on silk core metal wrapped thread, diameter 0.29; 19 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,32 x
silver gilt on silk core, doubled doubled Z; single thread: 0,29 m; 19 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,32 x
cope main fabric Gros de Tours, patterned and brocaded warp silk S; 0,15 64 Pattern repeat 17x15 cm. Selvedge 8,7 mm wide in rep. 52 warp ends: 12 green (g), 6 yellow (y), 10 g, 6 y, 6 g, 6 y, 6 g. Edge warp end – flax plied yarn. Figures 2A and 4.
main weft silk Z; 0,18 44
supplementary patterning weft silver gilt flat metal thread, width 0,15 22
supplementary brocading weft - metal thread together with a fine silk thread. silver gilt on silk core metal wrapped thread, 22 wraps/cm in S direction; thread diameter 0,46; strip width 0,35; silk core: S, diameter 0,46 22
silk S; 0,07
doublet main fabric Gros de Naples brocaded warp silk Z2Z; 0,25 69 Pattern repeat 8,5x10 cm. Figure 5.
main weft silk Doubled Z; 0,47 17
supplementary brocading weft silk S2Z; 0,67 17
lining taffeta warp silk S; 0,15 70  
weft silk low twist; 0,15 50
vams laces flat braid silk S3Z ; 0,69 18 Width 9,5-10 mm. Figure 5D.
doublet trimming background satin 4/1(2) warp silk 0,15 92 Figure 5. Detail in Figure 5B.
weft silk 0,22 42
embroidery couching laid thread 1 silk plied thread: Z2(S2S); 0,62
laid thread 2 silk wrapped thread: doubled core (S; 0,49) wrapped in Z direction with doubled thread (S; 0,21); 18 wraps/ cm; total thickness 0,71
coaching thread silk doubled S2S; 0,26
half cross stitch silk doubled S2S; 0,35
alb main fabric taffeta warp silk doubled S; 0,17 63 Figure 6.
weft silk doubled S; 0,21 46
trimming bobbin lace X silver gilt metal wrapped thread: thread diameter 0,48; 16 wraps/cm in S direction; strip width 0,49 Width 20 mm. Figure 6.
Cassock fabric 5 ends satin warp silk S; 0,08 115  
weft silk no visible twist; 0,21 46
coffin upholstery fabric solid velvet main warp silk S; 0,1 96 Grooved rod every 3 weft picks. Ground weave irregular broken twill. Figure 2C .
pile warp silk S2; 0,17 32
weft silk very low Z; 0,17 51
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