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Comparison of the Pilling Resistance of Linen and Hemp Woven Fabrics

,  und   
28. Mai 2025

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COVER HERUNTERLADEN

Fig. 1.

Plan of weave
Plan of weave

Fig. 2.

Weaving loom Itema 9500
Weaving loom Itema 9500

Fig. 3.

Schematic diagram of finishing process and additional technological operations
Schematic diagram of finishing process and additional technological operations

Fig. 4.

Martindale abrasion and pilling tester MESDAN-LAB, Code 2561E (SDL AT-LAS, London, England)
Martindale abrasion and pilling tester MESDAN-LAB, Code 2561E (SDL AT-LAS, London, England)

Fig. 5.

Graph of pilling performance of unfinished and finished fabrics investigated
Graph of pilling performance of unfinished and finished fabrics investigated

Fig. 6.

Graph of pilling performance of investigated finished fabrics before and after treatment
Graph of pilling performance of investigated finished fabrics before and after treatment

Fig. 7

Diagram of the mass loss of the investigated fabrics with different types of finishing
Diagram of the mass loss of the investigated fabrics with different types of finishing

Fig. 7

ANOVA table for the influence of pilling resistance on the raw material and type of finishing
ANOVA table for the influence of pilling resistance on the raw material and type of finishing

Fig. 8.

Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different raw materials
Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different raw materials

Fig. 9.

Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different types of finishing: (1) unfinished fabric;,(2) finished fabric;(3) finished fabric after enzymatic treatment
Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different types of finishing: (1) unfinished fabric;,(2) finished fabric;(3) finished fabric after enzymatic treatment

Grade of pilling for finished fabrics before and after enzymatic treatment

Raw material Number of samples Number of cycles
125 cycles 500 cycles 1000 cycles 2000 cycles
Expert 1 Expert 2 Expert 1 Expert 2 Expert 1 Expert 2 Expert 1 Expert 2
Finished linen fabric before treatment 1 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
2 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
3 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
Finished hemp fabric before treatment 1 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0
2 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5
3 5.0 5.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5
Finished blended fabric before treatment 1 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
2 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
3 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
Finished linen fabric after treatment 1 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0
2 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
3 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
Finished hemp fabric after treatment 1 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
2 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
3 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
Finished blended fabric after treatment 1 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0
2 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0
3 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0

Visual evaluation of the pilling test

Grade Description
5 Remains unchanged.
4 Partially formed or slightly fluffed-up pills
3 Moderate pilling or pills of various sizes cover a section of the sample’s surface.
2 Prominent pilling or pills of various sizes cover a significant amount of the sample’s surface.
1 Extremely noticeable pilling or pills of various sizes encompass the entire sample’s surface.

Raised hypothesis for pilling resistance

Null hypothesis (H0) Alternate hypothesis (Ha)
There is no difference in the average yield for any raw materials. There is a difference in the average yield by raw materials.
There is no difference in the average yield depending on the type of finishing. There is a difference in the average yield for any type of finishing.
The effect of one independent variable on the average yield does not depend on the effect of the other independent variable. There is an interaction effect between the group of materials and the type of finishing on the average yield.

Structural parameters of fabrics examined

Fabric Thread system Raw material Linear density of yarn Setting of unfinished fabric, dm−1 Setting of finished fabric, dm−1
Linen Warp Linen 28 tex 220 251
Weft Linen 28 tex 203 234
Hemp Warp Hemp 28 tex 220 249
Weft Hemp 28 tex 203 237
Linen/Hemp Warp Linen 28 tex 220 252
Weft Hemp 28 tex 203 235

Samples of chemically treated finished fabrics during the pilling resistance test after a specific number of cycles

Number of cycles 0 cycles 500 cycles 2000 cycles
Finished linen fabric after treatment
Finished hemp fabric after treatment
Finished blended fabric after treatment

Samples of unfinished and finished fabrics during the pilling resistance test after a specific number of cycles

Number of cycles 0 cycles 500 cycles 2000 cycles
Unfinished linen fabric
Finished linen fabric
Unfinished hemp fabric
Finished hemp fabric
Unfinished blended fabric
Finished blended fabric

Grade of pilling for both unfinished and finished fabrics

Raw material Number of samples Number of cycles
125 cycles 500 cycles 1000 cycles 2000 cycles
Expert 1 Expert 2 Expert 1 Expert 2 Expert 1 Expert 2 Expert 1 Expert 2
Unfinished linen 1 3.5 3.5 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0
2 3.5 3.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0
3 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0
Unfinished hemp 1 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.0
2 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.0
3 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.0
Unfinished linen/hemp 1 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
2 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
3 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
Finished linen 1 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
2 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
3 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
Finished hemp 1 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0
2 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5
3 5.0 5.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5
Finished linen/hemp 1 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
2 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
3 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5