Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua

1 Jin Y.S. Study on the inheritance of Nanjing Brocade. History of science and technology, Nanjing University of Information Science&Technology. 2016. JinY.S. Study on the inheritance of Nanjing Brocade. History of science and technology Nanjing University of Information Science&Technology 2016 Search in Google Scholar

2 Dai J. Nanjing Yun Brocade. Suzhou: Soochow University Press; 2009. DaiJ. Nanjing Yun Brocade Suzhou Soochow University Press 2009 Search in Google Scholar

3 Xu Z.J. The History of Nanjing Brocade. Nanjing: Jiangsu Science and Technology Publishing House; 1985. XuZ.J. The History of Nanjing Brocade Nanjing Jiangsu Science and Technology Publishing House 1985 Search in Google Scholar

4 Jin W. Nanjing Brocade. Nanjing: Jiangsu People’s Publishing House; 2009. JinW. Nanjing Brocade Nanjing Jiangsu People’s Publishing House 2009 Search in Google Scholar

5 Xu Z.J. Nanjing Yun brocade. Nanjing: Jiangsu Science and Technology Publishing House, Nangjing Press; 2002. XuZ.J. Nanjing Yun brocade Nanjing Jiangsu Science and Technology Publishing House, Nangjing Press 2002 Search in Google Scholar

6 Lu L. Inheritance and Innovation of Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage in Modern Designs: A Case Study of Nanjing Cloud-Pattern Brocade. Journal of Landscape Research. 2015; 7(02), 29–30+34. LuL. Inheritance and Innovation of Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage in Modern Designs: A Case Study of Nanjing Cloud-Pattern Brocade Journal of Landscape Research 2015 7 02 29 30+34 Search in Google Scholar

7 Ma D.K, Cheng M, Zheng D, Fan X.M, Wang W.J, Fang J. Development of Sichuan Brocade with Imitating Embroidery Effect Based on Free-Floats Interlacing Weave. Journal of Textile Science and Technology. 2020; 06(01), 2739–1543. MaD.K ChengM ZhengD FanX.M WangW.J FangJ. Development of Sichuan Brocade with Imitating Embroidery Effect Based on Free-Floats Interlacing Weave Journal of Textile Science and Technology 2020 06 01 2739 1543 10.4236/jtst.2020.61002 Search in Google Scholar

8 Sun Y.Q. Song Brocade: a Rare Treasure. China & the World Cultural Exchange. 2013; (09):18–20. SunY.Q. Song Brocade: a Rare Treasure China & the World Cultural Exchange 2013 09 18 20 Search in Google Scholar

9 Miu H, Wang G.H. Analysis and research of three famous brocade and innovation design of Song Brocade. Modern Silk Science & Technology. 2016; 31(6): 201–204. MiuH WangG.H Analysis and research of three famous brocade and innovation design of Song Brocade Modern Silk Science & Technology 2016 31 6 201 204 Search in Google Scholar

10 Guan J. Research on the inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade. Fashion Design and Engineering, Suzhou University. 2018. GuanJ. Research on the inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade Fashion Design and Engineering, Suzhou University 2018 Search in Google Scholar

11 Lu J.L, Chen X.F, Fan L.X, Zhang S.C, Han Y.J. Imitation of different flowers in different colors effect of Nanjing brocade. Journal of Silk. 2012; 49(03), 34–37+44. LuJ.L ChenX.F FanL.X ZhangS.C HanY.J Imitation of different flowers in different colors effect of Nanjing brocade Journal of Silk 2012 49 03 34 37+44 Search in Google Scholar

12 Du H.M, Jiang J.J, Xie J.Y. Research on modern design application of visual elements of Yunjin Buzi patterns in Qing Dynasty. Packaging Engineering. 2020; 41(16), 266–273. DuH.M JiangJ.J XieJ.Y. Research on modern design application of visual elements of Yunjin Buzi patterns in Qing Dynasty Packaging Engineering 2020 41 16 266 273 Search in Google Scholar

13 Zhang R, Liu Q. The Latest Progress of the Research and Exhibition on the Digitization of Nanjing Yun brocade Colors. TBIS Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Symposium Proceedings. 2020; 481–487. ZhangR LiuQ. The Latest Progress of the Research and Exhibition on the Digitization of Nanjing Yun brocade Colors TBIS Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Symposium Proceedings 2020 481 487 Search in Google Scholar

14 Kuang C.Y, Wang J.H, Zhang H.C. Study on the Application of Yun Brocade in Modern Design. Proceedings of 2012 2nd International Conference on Applied Social Science (ICASS 2012) Volume 3. 2012; 319–323. KuangC.Y WangJ.H ZhangH.C. Study on the Application of Yun Brocade in Modern Design Proceedings of 2012 2nd International Conference on Applied Social Science (ICASS 2012) Volume 3 2012 319 323 Search in Google Scholar

15 Guan J. Research on the inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade. Fashion Design and Engineering, Suzhou University. 2018. GuanJ. Research on the inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin Brocade Fashion Design and Engineering, Suzhou University 2018 Search in Google Scholar

16 Li B, Liu A.D, Li Q. Study on the Qrigins of the Nanjing Brocade. Journal of Silk. 2014; 51(08): 1–6. LiB LiuA.D LiQ. Study on the Qrigins of the Nanjing Brocade Journal of Silk 2014 51 08 1 6 Search in Google Scholar

17 Qian X.P. Analysis on characteristics of Shu brocade, Song Brocade and Yun brocade. Journal of Silk. 2011; 48(05): 1–6. QianX.P. Analysis on characteristics of Shu brocade, Song Brocade and Yun brocade Journal of Silk 2011 48 05 1 6 Search in Google Scholar

18 Liu L, Cui R.R. Development and inheritance of Nanjing Brocade. Journal of Clothing Research. 2018; 3(05): 445–447+451. LiuL CuiR.R. Development and inheritance of Nanjing Brocade Journal of Clothing Research 2018 3 05 445 447+451 Search in Google Scholar

19 Ying X.H, Yu SL. The pattern of Nanjing Brocade is analyzed from morphological semantics. Art Education Research. 2018; (22): 20–22. YingX.H YuSL The pattern of Nanjing Brocade is analyzed from morphological semantics Art Education Research 2018 22 20 22 Search in Google Scholar

20 Wang Q, Li Z. Nanjing brocade pattern and its application in “new Chinese” clothing design. Journal of Silk. 2019; 56(05): 60–65. WangQ LiZ Nanjing brocade pattern and its application in “new Chinese” clothing design Journal of Silk 2019 56 05 60 65 Search in Google Scholar

21 Zhou J. Analysis on variety and aesthetics of three famous brocades in ancient China. Journal of Silk. 2018; 55(04): 93–105. ZhouJ Analysis on variety and aesthetics of three famous brocades in ancient China Journal of Silk 2018 55 04 93 105 Search in Google Scholar

22 Burnham D.K. Warp and Weft. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum; 1980. BurnhamD.K. Warp and Weft Toronto Royal Ontario Museum 1980 Search in Google Scholar

23 Lu Z.Y, Hu R, Han S.M. Technical analysis and comparative study of three groups of decorative twisted gold threads of fabrics in Ming and Qing dynasties. Sciences of Conservation and Archaeology. 2017; 29(04):36–44. LuZ.Y HuR HanS.M. Technical analysis and comparative study of three groups of decorative twisted gold threads of fabrics in Ming and Qing dynasties Sciences of Conservation and Archaeology 2017 29 04 36 44 Search in Google Scholar

24 Wang Y.L, Fang H.J, Yin A.N, Chen Y. The manufacturing process of “Peacock Lucky Robe” from the Palace Museum-Application of 3D Video Microscope. Palace Museum Journal. 2009; (04), 149–154+163. WangY.L FangH.J YinA.N ChenY. The manufacturing process of “Peacock Lucky Robe” from the Palace Museum-Application of 3D Video Microscope Palace Museum Journal 2009 04 149 154+163 Search in Google Scholar

25 Zhang Q.Y, Lv H, Zhao Q.L, Wang X. Color Analysis of different color zones of peacock feather. Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis. 2013; 33(03), 632–635. ZhangQ.Y LvH ZhaoQ.L WangX. Color Analysis of different color zones of peacock feather Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis 2013 33 03 632 635 Search in Google Scholar

26 Dai J. Study on Yunjin’s fabric structure. Journal of Silk. 2004; (4): 47–50. DaiJ. Study on Yunjin’s fabric structure Journal of Silk 2004 4 47 50 Search in Google Scholar

27 Song Y.X. The exploitation of the works of nature. Beijing: China Science and Technology Publishing House; 1637. SongY.X. The exploitation of the works of nature Beijing China Science and Technology Publishing House 1637 Search in Google Scholar

28 Zhang R, Liu Q. The Latest Progress of the Research and Exhibition on the Digitization of Nanjing Yun Brocade Colors. Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Symposium Proceedings (TBIS 2020). 2020; 481–487. ZhangR LiuQ The Latest Progress of the Research and Exhibition on the Digitization of Nanjing Yun Brocade Colors Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Symposium Proceedings (TBIS 2020) 2020 481 487 Search in Google Scholar

29 Xu B.W. Research on the design of Nanjing Yun brocade loom. Nanjing University of the Arts. 2005. XuB.W. Research on the design of Nanjing Yun brocade loom Nanjing University of the Arts 2005 Search in Google Scholar

30 Zhang D.Y. Nanjing Yun Brocade. Nanjing: Yilin Press; 2013. ZhangD.Y. Nanjing Yun Brocade Nanjing Yilin Press 2013 Search in Google Scholar

31 Chai J, Cui R.R, Niu L. Study on the Technological Process and Artistic Characteristics of Ancient Chinese Zhuanghua Silk Fabric. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2021; 29(4), 105–111. ChaiJ CuiR.R NiuL Study on the Technological Process and Artistic Characteristics of Ancient Chinese Zhuanghua Silk Fabric Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2021 29 4 105 111 10.5604/01.3001.0014.8237 Search in Google Scholar

32 GB/T 5453: Textiles—Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air. China National Textile Council, Beijing, China. 1997. GB/T 5453: Textiles—Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air China National Textile Council Beijing, China 1997 Search in Google Scholar

33 GB/T 12704.1: Textiles—Test method for water-vapour transmission of fabrics—Part 1: Desiccant method. China Textile Industry Association. Beijing, China. 2009. GB/T 12704.1: Textiles—Test method for water-vapour transmission of fabrics—Part 1: Desiccant method China Textile Industry Association Beijing, China 2009 Search in Google Scholar

34 GB/T 3923.1. Textiles—Tensile properties of fabrics—Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip. China National Textile and Apparel Council. Beijing, China. 2013. GB/T 3923.1. Textiles—Tensile properties of fabrics—Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip China National Textile and Apparel Council Beijing, China 2013 Search in Google Scholar

35 GB/T 3819. Textile fabrics-Determination of the recovery from creasing of a folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery. China National Textile Council. Beijing, China. 1997. GB/T 3819. Textile fabrics-Determination of the recovery from creasing of a folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery China National Textile Council Beijing, China 1997 Search in Google Scholar

36 GB/T 18318. Textiles—Determination of bending length of fabrics. State Bureau of Textile Industry of China. Beijing, China. 2001. GB/T 18318. Textiles—Determination of bending length of fabrics State Bureau of Textile Industry of China Beijing, China 2001 Search in Google Scholar

37 GB/T 4802.1. Textiles—Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling—Part 1: Circular locus method. China National Textile and Apparel Council. Beijing, China. 2008. GB/T 4802.1. Textiles—Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling—Part 1: Circular locus method China National Textile and Apparel Council Beijing, China 2008 Search in Google Scholar

38 Dai J.Y, Xu B.J, Zhang H, He W.H, Xu R.L, Liu X.J. Wearability test and analysis of viscose silk-like fabric. Journal of Silk. 2017; 54(01), 9–14. DaiJ.Y XuB.J ZhangH HeW.H XuR.L LiuX.J Wearability test and analysis of viscose silk-like fabric Journal of Silk 2017 54 01 9 14 Search in Google Scholar

39 Raccuglia M, Hodder S, Havenith G. Human wetness perception in relation to textile water absorption parameters under static skin contact. TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 2016; 87(20), 2449–2463. RaccugliaM HodderS HavenithG Human wetness perception in relation to textile water absorption parameters under static skin contact TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL 2016 87 20 2449 2463 10.1177/0040517516671127 Search in Google Scholar