Open Access

Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua

Ying Sun
Ying Sun
, 
Zheng Liu
Zheng Liu
, 
Jeffrey Silberman
Jeffrey Silberman
, 
Jue Hou
Jue Hou
 and 
Jian Dai
Jian Dai
   | Dec 11, 2022
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Article Category: Research Article
Published Online: Dec 11, 2022
Page range: 9 - 20
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0033
Keywords
© 2022 Ying Sun et al., published by Sciendo
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Fig. 1

Schematic diagrams of subdivided varieties of Zhaunghua. Figures (a), (b) and (f) are in the collection of the Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China. Figures (d) and (e) are in the collection of the Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China. Figure (c) is a reproduction from the book Nanjing Yun Brocade (Dai J, 2009)
Schematic diagrams of subdivided varieties of Zhaunghua. Figures (a), (b) and (f) are in the collection of the Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China. Figures (d) and (e) are in the collection of the Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China. Figure (c) is a reproduction from the book Nanjing Yun Brocade (Dai J, 2009)

Fig. 2

(a) Portrait of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty in Zhuanghua satin, (b) portrait of Empress Xiaocheng, wife of emperor Kangxi, in Zhuanghua satin. Source: The Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China
(a) Portrait of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty in Zhuanghua satin, (b) portrait of Empress Xiaocheng, wife of emperor Kangxi, in Zhuanghua satin. Source: The Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China

Fig. 3

(a) structural model of lamella, (b) structural model of filé
(a) structural model of lamella, (b) structural model of filé

Fig. 4

(a) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper lamella (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (b) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper filé (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (c) Zhuanghua satin woven with alloyed paper lamella. (d) Zhuanghua satin woven with filé composed of a lamella of polyester material. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China
(a) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper lamella (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (b) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper filé (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (c) Zhuanghua satin woven with alloyed paper lamella. (d) Zhuanghua satin woven with filé composed of a lamella of polyester material. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China

Fig. 5

(a) physical image of peacock feather thread, (b) enlarged image of peacock feather thread, (c) Zhuanghua satin with peacock feather thread. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China
(a) physical image of peacock feather thread, (b) enlarged image of peacock feather thread, (c) Zhuanghua satin with peacock feather thread. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China

Fig. 6

(a) Fabric weave of Kuduan, (b) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kuduan, (c) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kujin, (d) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin□: Weft interlacing point. ▪: Warp interlacing point. ▴: Binding warp interlacing point
(a) Fabric weave of Kuduan, (b) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kuduan, (c) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kujin, (d) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin□: Weft interlacing point. ▪: Warp interlacing point. ▴: Binding warp interlacing point

Fig. 7

(a) Schematic diagrams of small drawloom, Source: Tiangong Kaiwu, Ming dynasty, 1368–1644 AD (Song YX, 1637), (b) large drawloom, Source: The Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China
(a) Schematic diagrams of small drawloom, Source: Tiangong Kaiwu, Ming dynasty, 1368–1644 AD (Song YX, 1637), (b) large drawloom, Source: The Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China

Fig. 8

(a) Fabric weave of plain satin, (b) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin
(a) Fabric weave of plain satin, (b) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin

Fig. 9

Moisture permeability and air permeability of samples
Moisture permeability and air permeability of samples

Fig. 10

Stretching resilience and crease recovery property of samples, (a) breaking force of samples, (b) elongation at break of samples, (c) crease recovery angle of samples
Stretching resilience and crease recovery property of samples, (a) breaking force of samples, (b) elongation at break of samples, (c) crease recovery angle of samples

Fig. 11

Stiffness, anti-fuzzing property and anti-pilling property of samples. (a) flexural rigidity of samples, (b) grade of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling
Stiffness, anti-fuzzing property and anti-pilling property of samples. (a) flexural rigidity of samples, (b) grade of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling

Test results of shape preservation property

Samples code Stretch resilience Crease recovery property
Breaking force (N) Elongation at break (%) Crease recovery angle (°)
Warp direction Weft direction Warp direction Weft direction Warp direction Weft direction
A1 954.3 1628.4 20.0 14.7 114.8 79.2
A2 946.2 1623.7 20.5 12.2 111.8 71.4
A3 974.5 1644.0 20.1 13.9 116.7 82.5
B1 965.2 1721.2 20.2 10.3 97.8 89.2
B2 936.8 1718.3 19.9 12.5 91.0 87.0
B3 984.9 1759.7 21.1 9.9 96.8 91.4
a1 1021.3 1860.2 22.9 7.7 91.2 108.8
a2 1003.4 1821.1 23.8 10.0 87.4 107.6
a3 1063.6 1871.4 24.5 10.8 93.8 114.0
b1 1019.7 1738.7 22.4 9.4 93.5 113.8
b2 996.9 1711.4 21.4 9.5 92.7 111.9
b3 1025.4 1744.6 23.1 11.0 93.5 119.9

Test results of appearance preservation property

Samples code Bending behaviour Anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling resistance
Flexural rigidity Anti-fuzzing grade Anti-pilling grade
Warp direction Weft direction
A1 32.8 432 1.5 3.5
A2 31.0 421 2.0 3.5
A3 37.0 498 1.5 3.5
B1 77.0 616 2.0 3.0
B2 72.0 577 2.0 3.0
B3 79.0 629 2.5 3.0
a1 26.0 102 1.0 1.5
a2 24.0 97 1.0 1.0
a3 39.0 125 1.0 1.5
b1 37.0 68 1.0 1.5
b2 31.0 65 1.0 1.0
b3 45.0 70 1.0 1.0

Detailed parameters of samples

Sample code Weight of fabric (g m−2) Thickness (mm)
A1 241.8 0.41±0.12
A2 238.2 0.39±0.10
A3 243.6 0.42±0.13
B1 292.7 0.57±0.37
B2 288.3 0.52±0.31
B3 295.1 0.58±0.35
a1 134.6 0.35
a2 132.1 0.34
a3 135.2 0.36
b1 116.9 0.22
b2 113.8 0.22
b3 117.3 0.23

Detailed Parameters of Yarns

Sample code Measured yarn fineness/tex
Warp Ground weft Brocading weft/Sirong Brocading weft/gilt paper filé
A1 3.5 29.5 (7) 41±0.5 56 (2)
A2 3.5 29.5 (7) 41±0.5 56 (2)
A3 3.5 29.5 (7) 41±0.5 56 (2)
B1 3.5 18.2 (5) 41±0.5 56 (2)
B2 3.5 18.2 (5) 41±0.5 56 (2)
B3 3.5 18.2 (5) 41±0.5 56 (2)
a1 3.5 29.5 (7) /
a2 3.5 29.5 (7) /
a3 3.5 29.5 (7) /
b1 3.5 18.2 (5) /
b2 3.5 18.2 (5) /
b3 3.5 18.2 (5) /

Detailed parameters of yarns for samples

Sample code Measured warp and weft density (·10 cm−1)
Warp Ground weft Brocading weft/Sirong Brocading weft/gilt paper filé
A1 1420 295.0 150.0 147.0
A2 1420 290.0. 148.5 146.5
A3 1420 302.0 149.0 147.5
B1 1420 315.0 155.5 156.0
B2 1420 310.0 152.5 153.5
B3 1420 320.0 157.5 156.5
a1 1420 304.0 /
a2 1420 299.0 /
a3 1420 307.0 /
b1 1420 333.5 /
b2 1420 322.5 /
b3 1420 335.0 /

Test results of permeability

Sample code Air permeability Moisture permeability
Mean air permeability (mm/s) Water-vapour transmission rate [g/(m2·d)]
A1 321.50±98.5 10780
A2 327.50±101.5 10480
A3 323.50±91.5 11270
B1 122.40±57.6 11170
B2 129.55±62.45 10180
B3 115.25±53.75 11220
a1 150 11910
a2 154 11040
a3 143 12270
b1 137 11840
b2 143 10670
b3 134 12570
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