Application of Gan Embroidery (Yuzhang Embroidery) in Neo-Chinese-style Woolen Clothing with the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage

Gan embroidery pieces feature a wide range of subjects, including famous calligraphy and painting, photographs, self-paintings, landscapes, flora and fauna, and portraits. Particularly, the rich variety of famous calligraphy and painting subjects enhances the expressive power and cultural significance of Gan embroidery.

Gan embroidery uses needlework as a medium, viewing threads as ink and employing stitching techniques as brushwork, skillfully concealing each thread and technique within the patterns. This unique feature allows Gan embroidery to rival traditional painting art, creating a distinctive mode of expression. Innovations in Gan embroidery stitching techniques include floating stitches, flat stitches, overlay stitches, and hairpin stitches, giving the artwork depth and intricacy. Additionally, the meticulous work in Gongbi-style embroidery, such as Fan Jinyong's butterfly patterns, presents the texture of mineral pigments in the thread, as shown in Table 1.

The creation of Gan embroidery strictly follows the growth patterns of flora and fauna, resulting in a strikingly realistic and vivid effect. When viewed from a distance, Gan embroidery pieces resemble traditional Chinese paintings, creating a visual impact. Close inspection reveals the fine lines and painting techniques of Gan embroidery, seamlessly blending to create a strong three-dimensional effect [11]. For instance, the series depicting Tao Yuanming and poetic landscape embroidery use the contrast between near and far perspectives and small scenes to present a vast world, conveying a dialogue between humans and nature, and portraying the natural life that modern people aspire to, as shown in Table 1.

Gan embroidery excels in portraying ink landscapes in the style of the renowned painter Bada Shanren. It highlights the characteristics of ink painting by skillfully transitioning ink shades, including intense ink, dark ink, heavy ink, light ink, and clear ink. Although Gan embroidery typically uses a black-and-white palette, it manages to create a sense of color through various stitching techniques and thread application, creating visual illusions.

Gan embroidery combines painting art with embroidery to create stunning artistic works, making it a brilliant gem in the realm of Chinese embroidery art. Its uniqueness, featuring diverse subjects, needlework as painting, and realistic and vivid representation, continues to captivate the attention of art enthusiasts and viewers, as shown in Table 1.

The even stitch results in neatly aligned stitches at the edge of the thread, with uniform spacing and tension. Stitches are close but not overlapping. The upward stitch should be to the left of the downward stitch, both positioned at the pattern's outer edge. The second stitch follows the first one in parallel. Each subsequent stitch should be parallel to the previous one. For instance, when using even stitches to embroider a chrysanthemum, start by drawing a chrysanthemum pattern on the fabric. Even stitches are usually monochromatic, without the need for color transitions. The upward and downward stitches are both on the outline of the pattern. While embroidering, pay attention to capturing the form of the flower, using different shades to embroider different petals and portraying the layers of the chrysanthemum according to the pattern. Even stitches can also be used to depict the fluffy texture of animal feathers, incorporating the growth pattern of bird feathers into the stitching technique, conveying a sense of fluffiness and layering.

Luan Zhen random stitch mainly employs intersecting lines of varying lengths and layered coloring techniques to depict the image. During the creative process, techniques such as Luan Zhen cross stitch, Luan Zhen well stitch, and Luan Zhen triangle stitch may be used. Luan Zhen cross stitch is a single stitch combination formed by the crossing of two stitches, and it is arranged according to the pattern. This technique is flexible and results in highly dynamic embroidery works. Luan Zhen well stitch is used based on specific embroidery patterns, creating a well shape on the fabric and then layering it in a way that achieves natural color transitions and a rich texture. Luan Zhen triangle stitch begins by embroidering an unequal-sided triangle and then extending another thread from one corner of this triangle. The resulting pattern is intricate and exhibits a mosaic-like texture, with multiple layers of color transitions, as shown in Table 2. Luan Zhen technique is lively, with smooth lines, rich colors, strong layering, and a unique style.

After exiting the embroidery area, grasp the thread with one hand and wrap the needle at the end of the line close to the embroidery area (it can be wrapped multiple times). Insert the needle approximately one or two threads away from the original eyelet. Then, tightly pull the thread, forming a seed stitch. When embroidering a petal using seed stitches, first draw a petal pattern on the fabric. Starting from the outermost edge of the petal, follow the outline of the petal. Begin with a light color, then fill the center progressively according to the pattern's requirements. For finer details, choose a fine thread to wrap once, or for a fuller three-dimensional effect, wrap multiple times. Follow the pattern to fill the petal completely. As you progress, gradually deepen the color to create a soft and natural color transition, as shown in Table 2.

Lock stitch is an ancient technique characterized by thread loops formed by connecting each stitch with the previous one. Lock stitches have a history of over two thousand years and are commonly used for decorative motifs on clothing due to their practicality and aesthetic appeal. However, they are rarely used today due to their time-consuming nature and skill requirements, as shown in Table 2.

Overlay stitches can be single or double, with double overlay stitches being one of the most commonly used and versatile techniques in embroidery. In single overlay stitches, the stitches are short, while in double overlay stitches, the stitches are longer. An illustration of the overlay stitching technique is provided in Table 3.

The twisting stitch technique involves drawing a straight line on the fabric. Insert the needle at the line and create a small stitch to secure the thread end. Start the stitch to the left of the thread, ending to the right of the thread. The first stitch is approximately 3–4 mm long. The second stitch starts at the left side of the second one, then folds back at the middle of the second stitch. The third stitch begins at the left side of the third one and folds back to the point where it connects to the starting point of the first stitch.

Embroidering radiating or winding patterns often incorporates short hidden stitches, referred to as ‘hidden stitches.’ This technique uses two different colors for embroidery. The first stitch is created using red embroidery thread, starting from the edge of the embroidery piece. The second stitch uses yellow embroidery thread, slightly shorter than the first stitch. Embroider a radial pattern with a few extra hidden stitches, such as three stitches. The fourth stitch is created using red embroidery thread, covering the corners of the yellow thread, giving it the name ‘hidden stitches.’

Grabbing stitches can be classified into regular grabbing and reverse grabbing. Regular grabbing begins from the outermost layer, starting from the center and working inwards. The second batch is started from the center's empty space, falling on top of the stitches from the first batch. The technique continues layer by layer until the pattern is filled completely. Reverse grabbing starts from the bottommost layer. For the second batch, a needle is inserted horizontally into the stitches from the first batch. Afterward, start a new stitch in the empty space and grasp the horizontal stitch, forming a zigzag stitch. Each stitch must grasp the previous horizontal stitch. The process is repeated to fill the entire pattern. Grabbing stitches result in clear layers, enhanced decorative effects, and a unique style.

In the design of Neo-Chinese-style woolen clothing, the collar, as one of the key components, plays a prominent role. Gan embroidery, as a significant traditional craft, provides designers with a wealth of decorative choices. Applying Gan embroidery to different parts of the collar can bestow the clothing with unique artistic appeal. (1)

Application on Collar Corners: The corners of the collar are often overlooked details, yet appropriate Gan embroidery decorations can make them a focal point. Here, delicate and simple Gan embroidery patterns, such as small flowers, leaves, or geometric elements, are chosen. Stitching methods like straight stitches can be used to ensure neat lines, embellishing the collar corners and adding finesse.

The application of Gan embroidery in different collar sections enriches the decoration and uniqueness of Neo-Chinese-style woolen clothing. By selecting suitable patterns and stitching methods, Gan embroidery breathes artistic life into the collar, making it an indispensable element in clothing design.

Sleeve caps, sleeve bodies, and cuffs are essential areas for Gan embroidery (Yuzhang embroidery) in clothing design, providing ample design space to bestow the clothing with unique artistry and aesthetics. (1)

Gan Embroidery Design on Sleeve Caps: Sleeve caps, also known as sleeve heads, are an important canvas for Gan embroidery. In Gan embroidery designs on the sleeve caps, various heights and lines can be used to create visual effects. This can be achieved by selecting traditional Gan embroidery patterns or patterns with specific themes, such as flowers, birds, landscapes, or calligraphy. The application of stitching techniques, such as floating stitches, flat stitches, or overlay stitches unique to Gan embroidery, is particularly important in sleeve cap design, creating layers and three-dimensionality.

By skillfully applying Gan embroidery to the design of sleeve caps, sleeve bodies, and cuffs, rich cultural connotations and unique artistic value are injected into the clothing, making it more attractive and distinctive.

In Gan embroidery (Yuzhang embroidery) clothing design, apart from sleeve caps, sleeve bodies, and cuffs, embroidery can be applied to other key areas to enhance the clothing's aesthetics and cultural significance. The following are examples of Gan embroidery applications in various areas, including the front closure, pockets, hem, and back, expressed in academic terminology: (1)

Front Closure Decoration: In the front closure section of clothing, Gan embroidery techniques can be applied to create unique decorative effects. This includes embroidering traditional patterns, floral motifs, or other culturally meaningful patterns in the front closure area of the garment. Embroidering the front closure can make the entire clothing more visually appealing and unique.

By flexibly applying Gan embroidery techniques in areas such as the front closure, pockets, hem, and back, creative and cultural connotations are infused into Gan embroidery clothing. This design approach not only reflects the inheritance of Chinese traditional culture but also injects unique artistic charm into fashion. Examples of individual part applications from this study are presented in Table 4.

Two-part combinations primarily involve pairing collars with other sections such as sleeves, front closures, pockets, back, and more. This method fully utilizes the prominent position of the collars in clothing and can imbue the attire with a different ambiance and style. Combinations include collars with sleeves, front closures, pockets, back, and more. The clever fusion of collars with different sections enhances the clothing's visual allure. This combination method can create collars of varying shapes, sizes, and patterns, making the clothing more creative and personalized. There are also combinations of sleeves, pockets, and other sections. These two-part combination approaches highlight the diversity and innovation of Gan embroidery in clothing design, infusing rich cultural and artistic atmospheres into the attire.

Multiple-part combinations include the pairing of collars, sleeves, and front closures, creating layered and visually impactful clothing effects. For example, combining exquisite Gan embroidered collars with sleeves and front closures can make the overall attire more luxurious and distinctive. There are also combinations of hems, sleeves, and front closures suitable for emphasizing clothing styles focused on lines and fluidity. Additionally, combining pockets, sleeves, and front closures, among other sections, can add practicality and decoration to the clothing. It's essential to note that when implementing multiple-part combinations, the selection of embroidery patterns is crucial. Overly complex or ornate patterns may lead to visual clutter, so patterns must be chosen carefully to ensure coordination and achieve a perfect effect. Examples of multiple-part combinations in this study are presented in Table 5.

When implementing these combinations, several factors must be considered. First, pattern consistency: the selected Gan embroidery patterns should be consistent across different sections to ensure overall cohesion. Second, color coordination: in color choices the overall color palette should be considered to avoid conflicts or overly complex effects. Third, the selection of stitching techniques and threads: the precise selection of stitching techniques and threads can affect the texture and layering of Gan embroidery and should be adjusted based on design requirements. By cleverly combining collars with other clothing sections, designers can create unique, sophisticated, and harmonious clothing effects, enhancing the overall design's quality and appeal.