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Effect of the Chemical Unhairing Process on Pulled Wool Characteristics

Olfa Abdellaoui
Olfa Abdellaoui
, 
Taoufik Harizi
Taoufik Harizi
 et 
Slah Msahli
Slah Msahli
   | 28 sept. 2022
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Article Category: Research Article
Publié en ligne: 28 sept. 2022
Pages: 70 - 78
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0025
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© 2022 Olfa Abdellaoui, et al., published by Sciendo
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Public License.

Fig. 1

Skin division along (a) longitudinal direction & (b) different sheep body parts
Skin division along (a) longitudinal direction & (b) different sheep body parts

Fig. 2

Scanning electron micrographs of (a) raw, (b) pulled wool fibers (□2000), (c) raw, and (d) pulled wool fibers (□1000).
Scanning electron micrographs of (a) raw, (b) pulled wool fibers (□2000), (c) raw, and (d) pulled wool fibers (□1000).

Fig. 3

X-ray diffraction spectra of different parts for raw and pulled wool fibers
X-ray diffraction spectra of different parts for raw and pulled wool fibers

Fig. 4

ATR-FTIR spectra of raw and pulled wool fibers; (a) 400–4000 cm−1 region, (b) 1000–1250 cm−1 region, (c) 1350–1750 cm−1 region
ATR-FTIR spectra of raw and pulled wool fibers; (a) 400–4000 cm−1 region, (b) 1000–1250 cm−1 region, (c) 1350–1750 cm−1 region

Fiber diameter (FD) of raw and pulled wool fibers

Sheep body part (as in Figure 1b) #1 #2 #3 #4 Mean Diameter (MD)
Raw wool diameter (μm) 27.72±4.21 25.28±3.50 26.94±4.21 25.40±4.19 26.34±1.19
CV (%) 15.19 13.84 15.63 16.5 15.29
Pulled wool diameter (μm) 26.59±3.96 25.00±3.71 26.10±5.67 24.80±4.23 25.62±0.86
CV (%) 14.89 14.84 21.72 17.06 17.13

Mean fiber length (MFL) of raw and pulled wool fibers

Sheep body part (as in Figure 1b) #1 #2 #3 #4 Mean Fiber Length (MFL)
Raw wool length (mm) 101.78±18.94 100.72±21.61 106.02±16.89 98.36±20.24 101.72±3.20
CV (%) 18.61 21.46 15.93 20.58 19.14
Pulled wool length (mm) 86.70±12.44 88..92±16.17 100.78±15.32 82.66±13.73 89.77±7.79
CV (%) 14.35 18.18 15.20 16.61 16.09

Clean weight yield (CWY) for raw and pulled wool fibers

Sheep body part (as in Figure 1b) #1 #2 #3 #4 Mean CWY (%)
CWY of raw wool (%) 81.61±1.32 89.06±0.88 90.72±2.01 76.21±2.68 84.40±6.75
CWY of pulled wool (%) 57.08±2.28 62.72±4.01 51.19±4.49 55.35±3.56 56.59±4.78

Moisture regain (MR) of raw and pulled wool fibers

Sheep body part (as in Figure 1b) #1 #2 #3 #4 Mean moisture regain (MR)
Moisture regain of raw wool (%) 15.52±0,59 14.56±0,65 15.25±0,82 14.18±0,62 14.88±0.62
Moisture regain of pulled wool (%) 14.42±0,66 14.41±0,78 14.70±0,73 13.18±0,57 14.18±0.68

Amino acids compositions of raw and pulled wool fibers

Amino acid Raw wool (mole%) Pulled wool (mole%)
Cysteic acid CYA 0.26±0.01 0.35±0.02
Aspartic acid ASP 9.85±0.02 9.77±0.21
Serine SER 11.42±0.01 11.5±0.04
Glutamic acid GLU 16.58±0.04 15.55±0.08
Glycine GLY 6.46±0.01 6.83±0.32
Histidine HIS 0.52±0.03 0.36±0.01
Arginine ARG 5.87±0.05 5.52±0.10
Threonine THR 7.09±0.06 5.59±0.03
Alanine ALA 5.73±0.01 5,88±0.01
Proline PRO 3.28±0.00 7,76±0.16
Lanthionine LANT 0.98±0.01 0,72±0.04
½ Cystine a 1/2CYS 9.06±0.06 6,24±0.08
Tyrosine TYR 2.14±0.03 2,57±0.04
Valine VAL 5.25±0.10 5,16±0.10
Methionine MET 0.27±0.02 0,54±0.03
Lysine LYS 3.87±0.01 3,55±0.12
Isoleucine ILE 2.86±0.01 2,76±0.05
Leucine LEU 6.88±0.04 7,34±0.14
Phenylalanine PHE 1.68±0.06 2,05±0.04

Mechanical properties of pulled (P) and raw) wool fibers (R.

BS (cN) T (cN/tex) E (%)
#1R 17.80±3.39 22.53 31.53±3.10
#1P 16.23±3.68 22.32 27.43±2.85
#2R 14.41±2.59 21.93 30.73±3.44
#2P 13.55±2,98 21.08 27.09±2.80
#3R 16.69±3.62 22.36 31.47±2.80
#3P 15.04±3.88 21.47 27.04±3.22
#4R 14.08±3.49 21.22 30.42±3.33
#4P 13.24±3.28 20.93 27.16±2.82
Raw 15.75±1.80 22.01±0.58 31.24±0.55
Pulled 14.52±1.39 21.45±0.62 27.93±0.17
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