<abstract xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><p>This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.</p></abstract>

This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.

Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast

Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences

Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and...

Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast

Publié en ligne: 02 mars 2019

Pages: 91 - 108

Reçu: 05 sept. 2018

Accepté: 22 nov. 2018

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2018-0007

Mots clés
coastal morphology, wave energy dissipation, equilibrium profiles, data-driven modelling, signal processing

© 2018 Grzegorz Różyński, published by Sciendo

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast

Publié en ligne: 02 mars 2019

Pages: 91 - 108

Reçu: 05 sept. 2018

Accepté: 22 nov. 2018

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2018-0007

Mots cléscoastal morphology, wave energy dissipation, equilibrium profiles, data-driven modelling, signal processing

© 2018 Grzegorz Różyński, published by Sciendo

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

Mots clés
coastal morphology, wave energy dissipation, equilibrium profiles, data-driven modelling, signal processing