<abstract xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><p> The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly induced by breaking. The main field data comprise wave heights and cross-shore bathymetric profiles.Wave transformation is modelled theoretically by two approaches, namely the IBW PAN phase-averaged wave transformation model and the approach based on the hydraulic jump model, developed by Hsu &amp; Lai (2009) for hydrological situations encountered under the actual conditions of two field campaigns - in 1987 and 1996. Discrepancies between the measured data and the model results are discussed. In general, the model results are in good agreement with the in-situ observations. The comparison of the field data with the computational results concerns a part of the surf zone between about 5 m water depth and the first nearshore stable bar, where the depth amounts to ca. 1.2 m.</p></abstract>

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly induced by breaking. The main field data comprise wave heights and cross-shore bathymetric profiles.Wave transformation is modelled theoretically by two approaches, namely the IBW PAN phase-averaged wave transformation model and the approach based on the hydraulic jump model, developed by Hsu & Lai (2009) for hydrological situations encountered under the actual conditions of two field campaigns - in 1987 and 1996. Discrepancies between the measured data and the model results are discussed. In general, the model results are in good agreement with the in-situ observations. The comparison of the field data with the computational results concerns a part of the surf zone between about 5 m water depth and the first nearshore stable bar, where the depth amounts to ca. 1.2 m.

Wave Transformation in a Multi-Bar Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Research Center for Ocean Energy and Strategies, National Taiwan Ocean University, 2 Pei-Ning Road, Keelung, 20224, Taiwan

Department of Harbor and River Engineering, National Taiwan Ocean University, 2 Pei-Ning Road, Keelung, 20224, Taiwan

Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Koscierska 7, 80-328 Gdansk, Poland

Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 License.

{"article-title":"Wave Transformation in a Multi-Bar Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)"}

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in...

Wave Transformation in a Multi-Bar Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Publié en ligne: 20 sept. 2016

Pages: 19 - 34

Reçu: 09 mars 2016

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2016-0002

Mots clés
wave transformation,wave energy dissipation,wave breaking, multi-bar cross-shore profile, phase-averaged model, hydraulic jump model

© by Tai-Wen Hsu

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 License.

Wave Transformation in a Multi-Bar Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Publié en ligne: 20 sept. 2016

Pages: 19 - 34

Reçu: 09 mars 2016

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2016-0002

Mots cléswave transformation,wave energy dissipation,wave breaking, multi-bar cross-shore profile, phase-averaged model, hydraulic jump model

© by Tai-Wen Hsu

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 License.

Mots clés
wave transformation,wave energy dissipation,wave breaking, multi-bar cross-shore profile, phase-averaged model, hydraulic jump model