<abstract xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">

<p>As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as “the flower of Oriental art”, draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades' historical texts, images, and style.</p>
</abstract>

As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as “the flower of Oriental art”, draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades' historical texts, images, and style.

Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade

School of Design, Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Base

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Public License.

{"article-title":"Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade"}

As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as “the flower of Oriental art”, draws on...

Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade

Article Category: Research Article

Published Online: Sep 28, 2022

Page range: 116 - 129

DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0030

Keywords
Xiangjin brocade, design feature, oriental art feature, weaving technique, pattern schema

© 2022 Zhao Wenji, et al., published by Sciendo

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Public License.

Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade

Article Category: Research Article

Published Online: Sep 28, 2022

Page range: 116 - 129

DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0030

KeywordsXiangjin brocade, design feature, oriental art feature, weaving technique, pattern schema

© 2022 Zhao Wenji, et al., published by Sciendo

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Public License.

Keywords
Xiangjin brocade, design feature, oriental art feature, weaving technique, pattern schema